Thursday, 1 December 2011

Introducing... Breaks


Apologies for the lack of posting this week. I hope you've not jumped to the conclusion that there must be a shortage of menswear material for this blog to sink its teeth in to. The truth is, it is the complete opposite and I'm struggling to find the time to give everything the attention it deserves. Damn the real world for getting in the way of a good post! Anyway, enough of my grumbles. To help fill the void, I'd like to introduce you to the London based label, Breaks.

Founded by Ryo Yamazaki and Kohji Yanagi in late 2010, Breaks instantly caught the eagle eye of independent fashion boutique Wolf & Badger with a debut collection that effortlessly fused a modern silhouette with punkish materials. The label is grounded in a shared obsession with classic punk and rock and a desire to repackage it for a new man. Somehow their accomplished debut slipped by my radar but thankfully their sophomore collection for SS12 grabbed my attention. Shortly after their impressive Yusuke Miyazaki shot look book landed in my inbox, I visited the pair at their Hackney based studio to learn more about the label and to take a closer at their designs.

A look around Breaks' small but perfectly studio in the creative haven that is Netil House.

Originally from Japan, the design partnership met through mutual friends whilst studying in London. However, neither had an education in menswear design, Yanagi studied womenswear at LCF whilst Yamazaki studied economics. Despite their different paths, the pair were united in their shared dream to create menswear in their adopted city. The design aesthetic is an intriguing balance of classic, minimal, and sharp shapes fused with punk inspired materials including leather, zips and studs. For their second collection, The Pursuit of Simplicity, the pair added military influences to this already heady mix following an excited trip to the Imperial War Museum. Now, I'm scarred for life by the mere thought of this famed tourist attraction after a torturous, lengthy visit at the insistence of my Dad but the design duo were captivated by the displays of uniforms and managed to bring a surprising lightness to their reimagination of military classics.

The design duo were quite shy when confronted with my excitement for their creations but fortunately the designs themselves did the talking for them. Their sophomore effort is a light, playful, tactile, wearable yet interesting collection that manages to develop their aesthetic quite wonderfully. The studio visit was ideal because it afforded me the opportunity to inspect the extremely well finished designs and marvel at the intricate combination of well sourced fabrics and leathers. Despite my obvious support for emerging talent it is rare that I find a collection that could slip effortlessly on to store rails and in to my everyday wear. Breaks is an exception to the norm. Having said my piece, I'll follow the designers and allow the designs themselves to carry on the discussion with the help of their look book and a few of my own detail shots...

Breaks lookbook_ss2012_1
Breaks lookbook_ss2012_2
Breaks lookbook_ss2012_3
Breaks lookbook_ss2012_4
Breaks lookbook_ss2012_5
Breaks lookbook_ss2012_6
Breaks lookbook_ss2012_7
Breaks lookbook_ss2012_8
Breaks lookbook_ss2012_9
Breaks lookbook_ss2012_10
SS12 Look book credits:
Direction and Styling by Ryo Yamazaki and assisted by Jun Yasui.  Photographed by Yusuke Miyazaki
Modeled by Danny Arter @ Nevs. Hairs by Takuya Sugawara. Graphic design by Kohei Suzuki

With two such accomplished and well crafted opening collections, I'm going to be keeping a keen eye on the development of Breaks.


betty said...

Simply incredible ... iv always been curious about men's clothing and how it is soo closely connected to wonens x x x

Fashion Philosopher said...

Very Helmut Lang 1990's- pure,sleek and minimal. Just Great.

gKind Regards The Fashion Philosopher

Anonymous said...

Amazing. You'd never know that this was only their second collection. So chic, so sleek.

Virginia Country House said...

Love the fine details!

P.C.Progeny said...

It's all in the details. These pieces are different and awesome!


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