Thursday, 30 December 2010

Casely-Hayford SS11: The Light Through the Darkness


Much of the last twelve months have whizzed right by me, a great deal has been forgotten for one reason or another. There have, however, been a few moments which have seen the dazzlingly fast rotating clock hands stop completely, allowing me ample opportunity to soak up the scene before me. Thankfully time was stopped during my visit to the SS11 Showroom Next Door and my heart still skips a beat or two as memories of Casely-Hayford's The Light Through the Darkness fills my memory. Having enthused over the collection back in September, it is my absolute pleasure to offer first sight of the look book with you...

Cover image; Circeo washed shirt jacket in deep red cotton, Azuil collarless shirt in white Panama cotton, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey.

Casely-Hayford's fifth collection consolidates their now signature style of relaxed masculine proportions, fused with an injection of London's cocktail of youth culture. Since its inception, the label has explored the intriguing duality of English sartorialism and British anarchy but now shapes a unique aesthetic that sees the emergence of the 'Sartorial Nomad' from the shadows of the darkened sensibility of their Afro Punk of the season before. Here, Casely-Hayford visit the the idea of the transcultural traveler, whose identity is an amalgamation of the many countries and influences that once or now surround him.

Looking at this collection, I'm reminded of the photography of Etienne Dehau. In his book about the Bedouin tribes and nomadic peoples of Arabia, the photographer took us to the heart of this immense region, tracking the ancient incense route and the nomadic Bedouins. Dehau's wonderful photographs illustrated the culture of these Arabs – a word that originally meant ‘people of the desert’ – as they move from camp to camp within a land that is both hostile and overwhelming. For SS11, Casely-Hayford have reimagined the nomad. The taletend design duo turn to the purity and tranquil energy of the Bedouin nomad in order to seek out something real and something minimal negating the excess so prevalent during the last decade. The Light Through the Darkness communicates ideas of a rebirth for a new decade. There is a discordant synergy is brought to the forefront of the collection as exquisite tailoring is worn over nomadic white shirts, referencing looks often seen in the confluence of London's East End. Here, the cut is unrestrictive and loose yet it still manages to remain masculine and athletic. Fabrics are natural, colours earthy and the silhouette voluminous but minimal...

Left; Moonstone jacket in grey tarmac wool, Lapis pale grey herringbone drawstring jacket, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey, Brett olive jersey l/s t shirt and Turbeville allotment creeper. 
Right; Luxor stone cotton workwear jacket with turned black hem and Cinnabar navy ribbed cotton fatigue pants.
 
Left; Volga gathered coat in greige wool,  Azul white Panama cotton collarless shirt, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Turbeville allotment creeper. 
Right; Circeo washed shirt jacket in grey/check reverse cotton, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Aldous 2SB, greige wool jacket, Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt. Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey and Isherwood brown leather sandals. 
Right; Marmor marine cotton knit cardigan with Touareg pattern front, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Arandis grey ribbed cotton waistcoat, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.
Right; Tropf bi-colour minimal Mac, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy/black cotton,  Afyon scoop neck stone crushed jersey t-shirt, Cinnabar stone ribbed cotton fatigue pants.
Right; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Anatol white cotton Chino, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy in khaki cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.
Right; Belvoir navy canvas reversible coat, Agra bellows pocket waistcoat in navy organic cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Left; Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.
Right; Aldous 2SB greige wool jacket, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Basalto flat front trouser in greige wool and Bentley brown leather quilted slipper. 

Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Look book credits
Photography: Katinka Herbert
Photography assistant: Christopher Kennedy
Art direction: Casely-Hayford & Son
Model: Yussef Yu, Fine Artist.
__________

9 comments:

Sol said...

so good. nice posting!

Christopher said...

Wow! I adore Casely-Hayford. Always fresh with such a strong signature. The best!!

Anonymous said...

Just stunning. Love, love, LOVE each look and I'm even warming to the idea of creepers.

Arthur said...

I am always blown away by Casely-Hayford. Everything is always perfectly executed and chosen - not only are the clothes beautiful, but the model choice and styling is consistently flawess. Fashion at its finest!

John said...

Flawless is the word. Thank you so much for posting this, I've not seen anything half as good in so long.

Brandon Acton-Bond said...

Steve your blog is like 032c for me. I save your posts for when I have a bit more time and grab a New York cup of tea (the equivalent of which is a slice of pizza (it just clicked why americans tend to be a bitttt heftier then the Brits)) and read the whole post in one glorious go. I am in love with the story that you paint and Casely-Hayford illustrates, these are brand new items of clothing that already have an inbuilt memory in them. I particularly love the long shirts and punk trousers but nothing beats the ease of the slightly more voluminous trousers. oh and can we just get a round of applause for naming a kind of grey Tarmac! Genius! what sounds more worldly then Tarmac?

Anonymous said...

Those Punk Nomad trousers are amazing. I NEED them.

Style Salvage Steve said...

Sol: No problem at all. Pleased that you like it. I've been eager to share these shots with you all for so long. This has to be my favourite look book of the season.
Christopher: Couldn't agree with you more. These two have fast become one of the best design duos working today and I just can't wait to see them continue to grow.
Anonymous: Ha, glad we could be of service.
Arthur: Agreed. Everything is just so considered and the results speak for themselves.
John: Flawless is the word.
Brandon Acton-Bond: Wow, that is a compliment indeed. Casely-Hayford make it easy for me. I really have been thinking about this xcollection since I saw it up close back in September. It really captured my imagination. So pleased that you noticed the fabric colour. I rarely include the description of each look but I can never leave it out with a Casely-Hayford collection. It never fails to both bring a smile to my face and inspire me.
Anonymous: Susie said the same thing just the other evening.

Anonymous said...

yeah but at the end of the day you still can't be 12 suits for a one pair of socks sale, no matter how bad the suits. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KbB3111WbE&feature=feedlik funny spoof..

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