Boots for the wilderness

Looks from Tim Hamilton's Aw09 collection.

Fashion moves so fast and at this point in to a season I am always a little confused. As the nights come earlier and the days that bit cooler I never know quite what to write about because most of my inspiration is somewhere in the future. Everything around me is geared towards SS10 (look books, press days etc) but in the real world it feels as though we are only just entering Aw09. I feel like I am lost in the great unknown, the fashion wilderness, no man's land. What does one need in the wilderness? Boots of course.

These boots are made for walking...and looking like a modern day dandy. Lanvin Aw09

Lace up boots can be something of a sartorial testosterone shot. They were employed with great effect in a number of Autumn Winter shows, including Alexander Mcqueen, Calvin Klein, Rick Owens, Lanvin and of course, my particular favourite Tim Hamilton. The February shows demonstrated that they can be both smart and causal. This experimentation trickled through to a number of look books, most notably in Christophe Lemaire's offering which saw the French designer use them effectively throughout the relaxed volume and natural textures of his collection. They are a true staple of the season. A catalyst for the silhouette whilst accentuating both skinny and loose fitting trousers.

The waiting game. Lodger's Kudu Brogued Boot.

Regular readers will know that I fell head over heels for Lodger's September shoe of the month, the Kudu Brogued Boot and I am now (im)patiently waiting their delivery. The wait will undoubtedly be worth it. The boot is an eight eyelet brogued style, and has a skeleton lining of the same Kudu leather as the upper, and a full lining in a plush purple velvet from Scabal. As there is only a certain amount of kudu leather available Lodger can only make around twenty five pairs or so. With this in mind and to pass the time until I can shoe horn my feet in to my beloved Kudu's I have trawled through the best of the rest online. There are just so many beautiful boots available online. If you too are stumbling around the fashion wilderness then take a look at the offerings below...

The best of the rest list (clockwise from top left):

• Raf Simons for Dr Martens 8 hole boot: Raf Simons works his magic on a simple and classic 8 hole DM boot in a black leather. Available from oki-ni.

• Ann Demeulemeester buckle lace up worker boots: Black leather lace-up worker boots from Ann Demeulemeester featuring a buckled strap around the top of the boot. Fine if you have a spare £695. Available from farfetch.

• B Store suede lace up worker boot: Navy suede ankle boot from b Store with seam detailing and grey laces. Available from farfetch and bstore.

• Trickers Tan Leather boot: Something of a classic. Tan leather brogue style lace-up boots by Trickers. Available from farfetch.

• Alexander McQueen ‘Calamity Halfboot’: A sturdy leather lace up boot with a double side zip detail, heel pull and heavy treaded Vibram sole. Available from oki-ni.

• Mr. Hare Kerouac: The Kerouac is a man’s boot with a little romanticism and some healthy disrespect for the rules. It’s an adventure boot. It was oh so tempting when I first saw the collection and I was close to buying a pair. Must resist buying a pair now but they are so gooood...Available from oki-ni.

• Bed Stu Leather boot: An antiqued black leather boot with leather lining and sole. Five eyelet laceup. Available from Oak.

• Lanvin Leather lace up ankle boots: The "I wish I were rich" boots. These black leather lace-up ankle boots have wool detailing on both sides. Available at Browns.

• F-Troupe Black Sheepskin Hi Top: If all of the above are just too aspirational, how about this pair from f-troupe? The classic shape gets a winter upgrade with a shearling upper. Available from Oak.

Need for tweed

For such a burly and utilitarian fabric, Harris Tweed evokes a great deal of romantically nostalgic feelings and the recent BBC4 series, Tweed captured this feeling wonderfully. We caught up with the director of the series, Ian Denver in September and his love and enthusiasm for this iconic textile was contagious. I had a need for tweed. Denver declared that he had "always loved and worn tweed - when the rest of my generation were getting in to pins and bondage pants, I was in Oxfam buying old Harris." Regular readers will know that I rarely fair well at second hand stores so rather than go on a fruitless quest trawling through the usual vintage store rails, I decided to go further afield. Charlie Casely-Hayford previously recommended Hornets in Kensington. I've been meaning to venture south of the river for some time now and now my visit had a purpose, a mission.

The mark of Harris Tweed.

Casely-Hayford described Hornets as "a hidden gem" which "is great for any gentleman on the search for second-hand English gentry attire." I am undoubtedly such a gentleman today. Long-established in Kensington, the trio of shops are bursting with quality tweed, serge, worsted and cavalry twill. I am told that at any given time the Hornet's range offers over two hundred tweed jackets (from £59), ranging from one to forty years old. Where better to find my Harris Tweed than the tweediest shop in the capital?

Harris Tweed jacket from Hornets, red corduroy shirt from Uniqlo and mustard scarf from COS, Unconditional wool trousers.

I can confirm that the stores are packed full of second hand English gentry attire tucked away in the side streets of Kensington. These are the places to find nice little pieces which will add a bit of class, pomp and colour to your everyday outfit. A Harris Tweed jacket certainly ticks all of these boxes. After disturbing the wonderfully attired shop keep mid hoovering, I went about my business of finding the right tweed for me. The rails are well stocked and well organised and I soon found my jacket. Yes, a few alterations are needed but in my eyes it is perfection. The colours are deceptively beautiful. A Harris Tweed yarn will routinely contain seven or eight different coloured wools, which are all blended together and then spun to create an amazingly rich texture of colour. I am going to have a lot of fun picking up the colours of the tweed in my shirts and accessories.

A seal of quality. Camart made in England.

This a tweed still woven by pedal-powered looms in the homes of Scottish sheep herders out in the outermost fringe of the British Isles. It has been this way since 1846. I now understand the history and the provenance of the cloth. There is something quite special about the Isle of Harris, Lewis and that northern chain of Hebridean islands. The materials and the colours are redolent of the sea, and the grass, the rugged life, the farming. As I watched the first show from the Tweed series and became frustrated by the plight of this famous tweed, I soon fell for its charms. I'm so pleased that I own a piece of this craft.

Harris Tweed jacket from Hornets, red corduroy shirt from Uniqlo and mustard scarf from COS.

Style Stalking through time

The recent Good Old Days editorial from DV Man (posted last week) shook me from my state of fashion ennui and reminded me of the sartorial inspiration from old photography. I often forget that there are so many style gems to be found outside of the latest product releases, look books and magazines. I frequently whittle away the hours trawling through old sets of images on flickr soaking up inspiration but at the same time feeling a little odd...I am little more than voyeur on unfamiliar pasts. As wonderful as the found images are, I am unlikely to find out anything more about the captured moment and am frequently left with unanswered questions. When I discovered that our good friend Isobel had unearthed a number of stylish shots of her father I jumped at the chance to learn a little more about the images and thankfully she has allowed me to share them with you. Thank Is for sharing a number of images depicting her father Clive, from the sixties and early seventies. What better way to spend a grey and damp Sunday afternoon than flicking through old photos? Sit down and make yourself comfortable because you are about to go on a style journey...

The May Boat picture from 1964. Clive is top right.

The May Boat picture is from Clive's first year at Cambridge University and shows a fresh faced student trying to keep up with public school chaps (whilst working hard to mask his Northern accent). There is something quintessentially English about this shot of clean cut students and dandy school masters. The chap is the centre is wonderful. Back in February, ACL hoped that the summer would see a return of the boater hat and shared a number of wonderful flickr archive images but this gentleman wears it extremely well.

This image (also from 1964) shows the young student in reflective mood. His studying ensemble includes a brown corduroy jacket, dark striped shirt and narrow black knitted tie. He is every bit the studious young scholar here.

The chiffon neck scarf phase, 1968. "How embarrassing is that?" declares Clive.

What a difference a few years make! Here the fresh faced student student has grown in to his surroundings. Where there was almost over eager and nervous air in the previous shots, now there is an air of cool about him. Isobel feels that he looks a little Byronesque in this shot and I'd certainly agree with that notion. Clive might be a little embarrassed by his chiffon neck phase but he undoubtedly pulls it off with a degree of assured Romanticism.

In 1971 wearing a cape in blue serge!

Last but certainly not least, we have the above shot from 1971. Now, this might be from the early seventies but this look would not look out of place in London Fields today. I love everything about this shot. The length of the skinny jeans, the loafers, the unruly hair and of course the cape. The cape in blue serge is beautiful and I'd love to have something similar hanging in my wardrobe.

If you are at home and have a stack of seemingly forgotten family photo albums gathering dust on the sideboard why not make yourself a cup of tea and flick through them? Let us know how you get on...

Sir Hardy Amies - A Century of Couture

He was Britain's most renowned couturier and dressmaker to the Queen for over thirty five years, not to mention a leading Savile Row tailor. Now the life and work of Sir Hardy Amies is to be celebrated with an exhibition on Saville Row. His career offered him an unrivaled insight into the world of the rich and famous. Now the nosy and the aspirational amongst us will also be able to peer into his world. His vast archive will be on show containing unseen photographs of the royal family, letters from Cecil Beaton and Margaret Thatcher, intimate diaries, sketches of his film costumes for 2001: A Space Odyssey and of course clothes will all be unveiled. Timed to coincide with the one hundredth anniversary of his birth, the exhibition, Sir Hardy Amies: A Century of Couture, opened this week and will run throughout November.

Amies' rule that "a man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care—and then forgotten all about them" is one of his gems of sartorial wisdom which is timeless.

GQ recently declared that 'if there were ever a patron saint of menswear it would have to be the late great Sir Hardy Amies. He is most fondly remembered as the author of the perennials of English style, ABC Of Men's Fashion and The Englishmen's Suit. There are very few books about men’s style worth reading, but Hardy Amies managed to write two of them. Back in 1945, Hardy Amies restored the Blitz hit derelict husk of a Regency house at No 14 Savile Row and opened his doors. Amies was widely admired for his fine tailoring, attention to detail and upper crust style. Throughout the course of his life he became a true Savile Row legend and one of its greatest patrons. It is the first time a British couture house has opened its archive to the public and those who can, should take advantage of it.

Picture Postcards: The good old days

The good old days by Carl Bengtsson for DV Man. Images courtesy of The Fashionisto.

Even for a magazine junkie like myself, many editorials seem to blur in to one and I take very little style inspiration from any of them. Over the last couple of months or so I've flicked through freshly bought issues all too quickly and have yet to summon the desire to reopen them. It is safe to say that I've been a little disappointed by the fashion on show in the latest issues of my favourite magazines and I think it might be time to look further afield. The Fashionisto never ceases to showcase the best editorials from around the globe and from time to time he unearths a real gem. The Good Old Days by Carl Bengtsson’s is one such gem. The editorial was taken from the Autumn issue of DV Man and since I first stumbled across it last week the images have been playing on my mind.

When I'm in a state of ennui about the seemingly relententless pace of fashion, I often trawl through a selection of archives on flickr (with the Library of Congress being a particular favourite) for alternative inspiration. At times, even though I love the style demonstrated in the shots it can be difficult to translate this is in to modern day attire. This editorial does just that. The introductory blurb to this DV Man editorial succinctly reads, 'An age of cheeky rascals and debonair merchants, a time when things really were better.' There is an age old charm in the shots themselves but also in the styling. The spread of images certainly captures a bygone era but the styling avoids the obvious trap falls of appearing like costumes and little more. The nostalgic styling by Ursula Wangander features designers including Acne, Rogues Gallery, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Old Touch, Jil Sander and Carin Wester to name just a few. The editorial has renewed my enthusiasm for print editorials and inspired me to trawl through image archives on the hunt for more sartoriaol gems strewn throughout history....expect quite a few related posts in the coming weeks...

Happy Birthday Fine and Dandy!

We might have differing opinions when it comes to men's style at times but both of us here at Style Salvage are united in our love and admiration for an eye catching dandy- a point hammered home when we spent about 20 minutes not-very-subtly staring at one such chap in the pub on sunday. It was inevitable then that we would fall for the accessory charms of online store Fine and Dandy. Back in June we caught up with proprietor, Matt Fox, for a transatlantic natter. Like us, Matt has an appreciation for the well dressed gentlemen of yesteryear and is inspired by their unabashed use of accessories, so this is what he stocks in his marvelous online store. Fine and Dandy is a shop which provides all the finishing details to truly be fine and dandy. One year on since launching the online store, Matt Fox and his dapper team decided to mark their anniversary by releasing a look book showcasing their 2009 offering. After congratulating the fine and dandy chaps we just had to share it with you...

Black Derby Hat, Burgundy Striped Houndstooth Bow Tie, Silver And Paisley Pocket Square

We are fortunate enough to receive quite a few look books in our inbox each week but very few leave us in a state of mirrored head nodding. This one left us marveling over the dapper accessories and the humorous photography shot by Patrick Roxas. Yesterday, Valet declared that the 'preppy-but-playful images pair nicely with the shop's new pieces' and we couldn't agree more. Dressing each morning should be fun and accessories like these provide the required pomp and colour.

Grey Diamond Hat, Purple Melange Silk Tie, Purple Handkerchief (part of set), Silver Fleur-De-Lis Cufflinks, Brushed Stainless Steel Pocket Watch

We love the fact that head wear is involved in every single look. As EJ mentioned in her campaign for hats, 'just look at the street scenes in almost any film made the 50s or earlier to see how commonly the hat used to be worn and how much better it makes almost everyone look.' Where would a dandy be without his felt ivy cap, black derby hat or grey diamond hat? The styling showcased here is inspirational for anyone looking to add a few new touches to their wardrobe this season. From the grey Herringbone Newsboy cap to a small gold key tie bar (our favourite) to an array of handkerchiefs the look book displays an array of finishing touches for the dapper amongst us.

Grey Herringbone Newsboy Cap, Grey With Red And Silver Bow Tie, Beige Handkerchief (part of set), Wood Pen, Leather Portfolio

"It’s actually really fun to spend a little bit of time every morning putting your clothes on, picking a tie, picking a handkerchief, choosing a shirt from your wardrobe, picking a jacket and a pair of trousers and putting it all together and feeling great in your wardrobe. It’s really a lovely thing to do each day." Ever the dandy, Patrick Grant, from a recent interview with SwipeLife.

Looking at the men walking the streets outside it seems a large number have men lost sight of how much fun it is to be well dressed. This look book clearly prescribes to the belief that dressing each morning should be anything but a chore or a bore. It is time to have a little fun each morning and this look book provides the required facets. This past year the chaps at Fine and Dandy have shown the way.

Brown Flecked Newsboy Cap, Grey Melange Silk Tie,Dress Stewart Wool Scarf, Gold Key Tie Bar

As we are separated by an ocean we weren't able to present the FineandDandy team with a cake complete with a single lit candle. So, we caught up with Matt Fox for another transatlantic chat and to wish the store a very happy birthday....

SS: The look book celebrates one year of Fine and Dandy. Congratulations on reaching this landmark. How has the last year been?
Matt Fox: Amazing. The response has been wonderful and we feel confident that we've set a great foundation for our brand.

SS: What has been your most fine and dandy moment?
Matt Fox: Shooting the look book was a major fine and dandy highlight. We really felt that everything we've been working on came together in that shoot and we're so pleased with how our new photos represent the Fine And Dandy look.

SS: Talk us through some of your inspirations for the look book..
Matt Fox: We wanted to have a diverse mix of formal and less formal looks. And we wanted to show how a little dandy style can be infused in most any outfit.

SS: What are your favourite pieces for AW09?
Matt Fox: Some favorites: our Brown Fleck Newsboy Cap, our Buffalo Nickel Cufflinks, and our new collection of handkerchiefs.

SS: What can we expect from you in the coming year and beyond?
Matt Fox: The big news for our European fans is that we've begun making plans to ship to Europe in the new year.

Black Crushable Felt Ivy Cap, Purple Paisley Bow Tie, Blue Multi-colored Pocket Square

Happy Halloween!

Boots for the rugged man

The Abington Hiker Boots.

With the winter season lurking around the next corner my mind frequently turns to boots. So the launch of Timberland's latest Abington collection is quite timely. I was fortunate enough to make it to the London launch at their Spitalfields store so could inspect the new designs up close. Last night saw me take my first steps inside a Timberland store and I liked what I found but the Abington collection was certainly one of the highlights.

The collection is aptly named because the brand was originally called The Abington Shoe Company way back when. It is made up of clean, modern classics inspired by the fields and factories of old. The collection, now in its third season, is inspired by traditional boots from a time when the land was rugged, the people were rugged, and the essentials they depended upon had to be as well. Now, I'm hardly the most rugged man out there and my daily activities don't require something quite as rugged as these but I can but dream. Even a Southern Fairy like me holds some romantic notions of exploring the great outdoors in boots like these. I have to confess that as I strolled around the store with the smell of leather filling my nostrils, I did feel that bit 'manlier.'

The Work Chukka - Clean, simple and lightweight design.

SS10 see the launch of three new silhouettes; the Work chukka, Foreman Boot and the Rugged Handsewn shoe. In each, premium materials including leathers from the Horween leather Company of America and the Charles F. Stead & Co Ltd of England, are crafted for warmer weather and the rigours of wear over time. As much as I liked the work chukka with it's clean, simple and lightweight design the real star of the offering is the Hiker...

The Hiker.

The Hiker is a classic hiking boot silhouette with hinged lace holes, a thick sole and high ankle support using the finest Horween leather and Vibram soles. Despite falling short in the required amount of typical 'manliness' needed to pull of these boots I can certainly get on board with their construction and finish. The collection is hand crafted from premium leathers and rich materials that reflect Timberland’s history of quality and craftsmanship.

Competition time: Win £500 to spend on YMC at my-wardrobe.com!

To celebrate the arrival of YMC, we have joined up with my-wardrobe.com to offer one lucky reader £500 to spend on a new winter wardrobe. The British born YMC were one of the very first brands we featured here on the blog. Way back in July 2007 when we all that bit younger and freer, we cooed about its wearable yet distinctive offerings. Having just returned from Manchester where the label was widely stocked (it has since spread much further throughout the country) it was obvious that this was a brand that helps satisfy the demand for stylish, functional, modern clothing which is made all the better by giving a measured nod to the past in the process. Keep your eyes peeled for a special interview with the YMC chaps next week. Here is how we would spend the prize money…

For autumn/winter 09/10, YMC’s collection harks back to the harsh but simpler times of early 20th century. Inspired by European and American work wear from the great depression of the 1930s, the menswear collection features traditional natural fabrics - cotton, flannel, and cotton and wool mixes. Leather coats are lined with military blankets, while priest collars lend shirts an air of austerity. Other pieces, though inspired by pioneer hunting and fishing, benefit from modern technical advances. Alongside their Autumn Winter collection you'll also find the brand's iconic side cinch zip cardigan designed in an exclusive shade of plum (our favourite) to mark their arrival at my-wardrobe.com. If you were to win this competition your winter wardrobe would certainly thank you!

We do like a good competition here at Style Salvage and this definitely is a good competition. So good in fact we were extremely tempted not to share it with you and just try to win the prize for ourselves but the truth of the matter is, we love you guys… and it’s against the rules. Damn. Enter here. Good luck!

EDIT: The competition is now closed. Thanks to all who entered!

Why does it always rain on me?

Norwegian Rain. Image from Selectism

"Growing up in Bergen, Norway means a life in rain. You can hate it or love it. No matter how you approach it, one thing is certain; it will rain tomorrow, or the day after."
Alexander Helle in an inteview with Dazed Digital.

We all grumble about the wet weather but rarely do anything about it aside from getting all wet and bothered. Travis wrote a catchy song about it in the 90s but what use is that when your soaked through in 2009? Alexander Helle and his team decided to take action. Rather than moan or write a song, they decided to create something useful. From the rainiest city in Europe, Bergen, Norwegian Rain is something of a labour of love to protect oneself from the elements. It is little surprise that this project has received a fair bit of online attention, initially on Selectism and Esquire and most recently an interview piece with Dazed Digital because the debut collection is really something to covet.

Double breasted rain coat mixed grey.

Growing up in this small, creative city in the western part of Norway sparked and shaped the 28 year old founder's decision to finally become dry and comfortable no matter what the weather. A thriving collaboration between acknowledged local designers and soaked citizens of Bergen has evolved, drop by drop. The debut collection, inspired by Japanese simplicity and Scandinavian functionalism is truly something. Selectism reliably informs us that the chaps from Bergen have worked with a high end Japanese textile maker, to ensure that the jackets remain eco-friendly by using waterproof and breathable materials made from recycled fibers. The limited edition collection, three hundred and fifty pieces (in all and all numbered), is a subtle mix of traditional men’s tailoring and the technology found in extreme rain protection.

Double breasted raincoat blue herringbone.

The Raincho is the real highlight of the debut offering. It would certainly provide a quirky and sculptural contrast to my everyday uniform but this coat offers so much more than floaty light aesthetics. Everything is considered. The two inner bike handles makes it an interesting alternative to urban bicyclers whilst the wonderfully named storm flap is made with cashmere lining for ultimate comfort on those cold and windy days. It really is time to throw away those broken umbrellas and look forward to the impending wet weather...

Past. Present. Future

Faced with a weekend without my good friend the Internet, not to mention two tiresome train journeys I made sure I packed a few magazines for my recent trip back home to Kent. As I waited for my train to arrive at the platform, I doubted whether the latest issues of Monocle and Man About Town would provide enough printed entertainment so went on a last minute publication dash to the poorly stocked WH Smith at Victoria Station. After a few minutes of indecision perusing the sorry excuse for a newsagent I plumped for the Inside/Outside issue of i-D. Aside from the odd flick through at Borders or whilst I'm waiting for my turn to sit on the hairdressers chair, I've not read an issue for months. I'm glad I did though because this issue is packed full of features which kept my mind occupied throughout the journey. Highlights include chats with JW Anderson, Patrick Ervell and Thomas Engel-Hart, a Tao editorial and an up close and personal with Karl Lagerfeld. However, it is the feature on Aitor Throup which really captured my imagination and in particular the below image...

Image from Aitor Throup, used in i-D Fall 09. Concept and Styling by Aitor Throup, Photography by Neil Bedford with Styling Assistant Stephen Mann.

The feature focuses on the designers technically advanced reinterpretation of C.P Company's most iconic jackets. Of course, I've already posted about this collaboration (twice in fact) so I won;t rehash the details again but I just wanted to share the image with you. The above image, dreamt up and styled by the designer himself wonderfully illustrates how he approached the collaboration. The image was accompanied by an insightful interview with the publications Deputy Editor, Holly Shackleton and provided the highlight of my train journey. I could quite happily post the interview in its entirety but it might be best to just pick out my favourite question and answer.

What type of man do you envisage wearing the jacket?
I hope that the big followers and collectors of this iconic piece will embrace it and appreciate its integrity. I would love for the rich narrative, which is part of the design, to help introduce C.P. Company to people who perhaps didn't realise just how much integrity and heritage there is in this brand. Stylistically it's a really accessible piece. It can be seen as a really directional statement on one person, whilst on another it can look quite normal. I'd love to see a variety of completely different people wearing it in different ways.

At the exhibition launch on Thursday, I noted the variety of people in attendance. There were C.P Company representatives, next to brand enthusiasts and collectors (a few wearing releases of the iconic jacket) sandwiched between the fashion crowd and frequent exhibition opening attendees. I am quite certain that most people in attendance took something different away with them but all were united in agreement that the exciting design talent had bought the goggle jacket firmly in the twenty first century.

Stop Motion Inspired

Inspired by stop motion, the stylish Fantastic Mr Fox.

Last month, our old chum from across the water, The Sunday Best, asked the question "Is it strange to find style inspiration in an animated movie?' and duly answered his own pondering with 'Probably not when that movie is directed by Wes Anderson and features George Clooney'. I was fortunate enough to watch the film yesterday evening and in between scoffing my face with popcorn (half salted, half sweet) and covering my nose (after someone was sick a few rows back) I was certainly inspired and in awe of the style on show in this stop motion animated film. I find style inspiration everywhere, in fact more often than not I find it in the places where you'd least expect. This is very much more a Wes Anderson film than it is the Roald Dahl book that I remember but this is no bad thing. There are all the Anderson archetypes which have made this director great; stunning visuals with an exquisite attention to detail, issues of fatherhood, musical guest appearances and literary flourishes throughout. Everything is just so - from Mr Fox's well fitted double breasted corduroy suit to Badger's pocket square. Everything is measured, everything is perfect. I certainly could take a more measured approach to my everyday dressing. Everything should have a place, I just need to find said place...

Wes Anderson illustration by James Taylor for the Guardian.

Mr Fox's ensemble is a tight-fitting corduroy suit based on fabric from one of the dandyish forty year olds own suits. Mr Fox's suit is made of orange/brown-ish corduroy. It should come as no surprise to see that its hero sports a natty double-breasted version of Anderson's beloved suit, (as captured by the Sartorialist on at least one occasion) tastefully accessorised with a few ears of wheat in the breast pocket. The whole look is akin the colour of a leaf in autumn, in fact Anderson and his team wanted the whole film to look like Autumn. It is little wonder then that this film's style resonates so strongly, as you all know, I am obsessed by the colours of the season and dressing accordingly.

Wes Anderson in Paris. Shot by the Sartorialist (who else?!)

The talented chaps over at Street Etiquette recently highlighted the virtues of corduroy and I've certainly been respecting this durable textile much more in recent years. I'm somewhat embrassed to admit that there was a time when I would outright refuse to wear anything corduroy because my adoloescent mind deemed it far too uncool for me. Thankfully, I have grown out of this phase and truly respect it for what it is, a versaitle fabric perfect for the cooler months. "I rely on corduroy," Anderson admits in the recent Guardian interview. "I've been here in London a week – this is all I've got. "They last a couple of years. I have a guy who makes them specially for me. They're very inexpensive and I can just call him up and say, 'Can I have another one please?'" I'd certainly like his tailors number. In the meantime, I plan to swing by Lambs Conduit street to pop in to Pokit to inspect their corduroy suit offering because I have heard great things about this tailors.

The shoe that fits...

Shoes worth waiting for...Lodger's Striped Oxford.

In an era before shoe stores, every pair of shoes was custom made. Lodger Footwear are dedicated to reviving the tradition of custom made footwear through the combination of age old handcrafted techniques alongside the use of modern technology. Back in July my head was turned by their latest shoe of the month. The breathtaking Striped Oxford was duly added to my shoe list and after saving the required pennies needed, I decided to invest in a pair. Inspired by the Duke of Windsor (undoubtedly one of the best dressed men of all time) the design is a interesting blend of fine Scabal striped linen and burnished French calf. It is this combination which makes it a great addition to the shoe pile for the warmer months. All in all, these make for a fine investment. The only downside was I had to play the waiting game because the shoe had to be custom made. I only describe it as a downside merely because I am an impatient chap, however, after my initial finger tapping moments my outlook altered. As the weeks passed, I increasingly became excited by the thought that my shoes were being made to order. To my specification. I began to truly appreciate what I was about to receive. Now the time has come and my shoes are ready, they are mine and they are truly something.

From the regular emails I received to update me on the shoe making progress right through to the moment I entered the Clifford Street store to pick up the finished pieces, I knew these were special shoes. This was carried through to how the shoes were beautifully packaged. The folks at Lodger don't like waste, so they give the customer a box that they will want to keep and actually help organise their shoe collection.

The shoe bag is specifically designed to cradle the shape of the new shoes perfectly whilst minimising waste. Every pair of Lodgers comes complete with a pair of bespoke shoe trees that are turned from the original last used to make the shoes. As they are built to exactly the same size as my shoes, they will keep them perfectly formed for many summers to come.

Lodger Footwear have an irrational passion for beautiful shoes and they quite remarkably release a new shoe each month. Each shoe is individually made using the latest technology in a factory with more than one hundred years of shoe making experience. It is this mix of continuous design, in combination with cutting edge technology and traditional craftsmanship, which makes this a truly unique shoe company. These are shoes worth waiting for. By releasing a shoe every month, they design for every occasion throughout the year. These are a treat for those winter holidays taken in sunnier climates than London. Now, all I need to is escape this gloomy city...

Goggle Jacket: Past and Future

Back in May we featured the most exciting collaboration of the year. Style Salvage favourite Aitor Throup was asked to design the anniversary edition of C.P. Company's most iconic jackets, the 1000m Goggle Jacket. Last night, I was able to examine it up close and I've still got a smile on my face today. Ever since I encountered his mind blowingly good graduate collection back in 2006 my heart races every time I see or hear his name mentioned. Since graduating, Aitor continues to push the boundaries of technically advanced clothing and utilitarian menswear in to fresh and exciting directions. Back in April, the exciting design talent curated an exhibition to showcase the Goggle Jacket's past and present at the International Furniture Fair in Milan way back in April. Of course I was able to see much of the exhibition virtually, thanks to the wonders of the Internet , but I longed to see the showcase of design innovation up close. Thankfully an even stronger and more impressive exhibition has opened up at the RCA and I was fortunate enough to see it last night. The exhibition is now open to the public for a limited period of two days (today and Saturday, 10am until 4pm both days) so you'll have to be quick!

Exhibition folk enjoying two of the twenty iconic designs on show...

The Mille Miglia Car race, was a one thousand miles open-road endurance race that started in 1927. From 1977 until nowadays, the name was revised in 'Mille Miglia Storica', with all competing cars being pre-1957. In 1988 C.P. Company sponsored the race and for this special occasion Massimo Osti exclusively designed and produced, as a promotional piece for the Mille Miglia competitors, the very first Goggle Jacket. The Past and Future exhibition features twenty archive designs including this very first jacket. A way to celebrate C.P. Company's route through the different steps of this iconic item which, season after season, has been subject to continuous experimentation and evolution. This marvellous exhibition is a story of materials, special treatments and shape research.

One of the exhibition highlights, the evolution of Aitor's designs...

As mentioned every time I jot down the designer's name, I was fortunate enough to listen in to his conversation with Sarah Mower at the V&A last Summer and during this chat Throup's face lit up and his passion took over as soon as he started talking about this iconic jacket. Growing up in Burnley in the 90s, Aitor first became aware of the jacket adorning the backs of the football casuals. Anything connected to Massimo Osti had the most aspirational value for the terraces. As a long term fan and collaborator with C.P Company, Aitor was the natural choice for the brand to approach to redesign the anniversary edition of their cult jacket. For his own innovative design, Throup has analysed all of the original elements of the first Goggle Jacket and has looked deep into the aspects of postural anatomy. He has gone deeper than the aesthetics and functional approaches of previous designs and has created a garment even more focused on the concept of driving. Aitor Throup had this to say on the 1000m Goggle Jacket: "I have taken a literal approach to driving ergonomics and functionality, with the aim of creating a piece which is even further informed by its driving concept than the original." The most distinguishing features are goggles, watch viewer window and detachable driving pouch. Aitor truly has pushed function and ergonomics and this is evident as much in the design process as it is in the finished design. I'm certainly not aware of any other driving jacket whose shape shifts in to a driving position when required!

The look of the past and the future. Two looks used in the recent issue of i-D.

For Aitor Throup the brand has not had the respect and attention that it's iconic designs deserve. This exhibition will surely change a few people's perceptions and understanding of C.P. Company. If you are unable to make it down to the RCA in the next couple of days, hopefully my excited ramblings combined with the below video help. Thanks to James Yeomans, Aitor Throup and the whole crew at C.P. Company, Being Hunted were able to provide us with this great time-lapse video that will show you how the installation was set-up...

C.P. Company Past and Future. from James Yeomans on Vimeo.

Taking Pleasure in Everday Wear

Pleasure Wear: Early morning shopping in a Visvim blouson jacket and a Tokito jacket, before slipping in to a Farmers Market jumper and donning the Oliver Peoples spectacles to catch up on a week's worth of magazines. Monocle November 09. Photographer, Seishi Shirakawa. Fashion Editor, Akio Hasegawa.

Having been placed in solitary confinement these past few days I've hardly left the flat. Thanks to the latest issue of Monocle (a brilliant read which will inspire any budding entrepreneur to take the plunge) I have been able to live vicariously through Yusuke Hirayama as he wanders around Tokyo going about his daily business. I just had to share the images with you. The concept of a personal uniform is an interesting one and one which we often return to on the blog. Monocle's Pleasure Wear fashion editorial takes this idea of dressing for the everyday but rather than depicting a set, static ensemble presents which we adopt as a second skin, it looks for dressing especiallyfor each of the different scenarios we might (wish) to encounter.

Enjoying a toasted sandwich and a ginger ale whilst wearing a Mackintosh coat, Dunhill jacket, United Arrows knit and a shirt by Camiceria Thienese.

In Tokyo a day off work is a rare treat, so whether you spend it restocking the cupboards with essentials, walking through the park or working your way through your magazine stash, you'll need the perfect attire. This spread of images instills a desire to insert the odd, additional outfit change in to my day. Edward VII, a major inspiration for the first two offerings of E. Tautz, said it best, "Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion." As we might encounter a number of different occassions each day, why not plan for a wardrobe change?

Descending in to Ginza to pick up a few essentials, not to mention the odd admiring glance.

Regular, Monocle readers will recognise Yusuke Hirayama as the publications ever present male model and his editorials never fail to inspire me but this spread of images stoked my everyday style fires. His styling throughout these few pages are faultless. Within the Contributors page we are informed that he's been breaking in to acting and is playing a character in Kadakawa's soon to be released Warau Keikan. Additionally, we are told that on his days off from work, he enjoys practicing martial arts, including karate...no doubt at all times he appears utterly stylish. if you've not had a chance to do so yet, I suggest that you go out and pick up the latest issue of Monocle and why not amend your attire accordingly...