Sunday, 13 January 2008

Sander innovates with the help of Simons' mind

On first glance there was a lot that I didn't like about the Jill Sander a/w collection. Aside from the well cut suits I thought there was just too much going on; the marble effect was just too much which made the collection feel very New Wave and my gut reaction was one of disappointment. However, on subsequent viewing it is clear that Simons has again shown that he is one of the most forward thinking menswear designers around. Rather than rehash what he has done in the past Simons always moves forward and enters new territories for menswear. It don't always work but when it does it is very good indeed.

This is my favourite look from the Jill Sander a/w 08 collection, both the collar detailing and cut of the jacket are awesome!

There was too much marbling for me when it was used in everything from suits, coats, totes and even turtlenecks. The below look reminds me more of a farm animal than a great marble column.

I prefered the marble look where it was used more subtly, for example under the coloured suits. I would have preferred it further if it was worn alongside some of the tweed suits. That could have been a very interesting look, a great cocktail of textures.
Simons delivers what I want to wear, here in the form of a suit with a dull but seductive metallic gleam.

Tim Blanks on summarises Simons' true gift and what makes him on the best designers. "In a David Lynch-ian "nothing is quite what it seems" way, the graphic texture of a coat suggested beading when it was actually tweed, and a pleating effect—sometimes horizontal, sometimes vertical—loaned a new definition to the body's movement."

1 comment:

..... said...

the marble is so horrible !! what were they thinkin about ?!!!


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