A judging eye on Milan

Fantastic Man's very own Gert Jonkers wearing his stars and stripes outside the Ermenegildo Zegna show.

Seeing as the last post was a long rant of a post, I thought I'd offer something a little lighter. As I try and arrange an agreeable time with Thom for our Milan discussion, I am still refraining from posting about the shows themselves (although that makes it sound like they were really exciting when you all know that they weren't!) so instead I will continue to comment on the street style. I have searched the net for the best street style shots of the events in Milan but the Sartorialist's blog on men.style still offers the best by far (if you've come across anything of note, please do let me know).

These two chaps above are two of my favourites.

As I cast my judging eye over the happenings over in Milan I would like to award Ermenegildo Zegna as attracting best dressed crowd. The show itself had far too much camel for my tastes (I guess it made a nice change from all that grey) but the crowd were far better dressed. Apparently, this tailored clothing powerhouse wants to be known as more than just a maker of luxury textiles and banker suits and it certainly attracts a different crowd. Well done Ermenegildo.

A Nation of Shopkeepers?

Source

Over the last week most of our attention has been focused on the goings on over in Milan and now Paris...Charlie Porter has notified us via his Twitter that the YSL presentation is his favourite show thus far so I am desperate to see the first lot of images (update: now up on Dazed Digital). Despite the fashion week activity I have also been contemplating the other side of the business, retail. Even the collections themselves were deeply affected by the current state of the world economy...the recession wasn't hinted at but instead the shows almost screamed panic due to the state of affairs...which sends a warning signal to the rest of the industry. I am torturing myself by watching and reading the news...as the doom and gloom seems to be getting darker by the day...which leads me to thinking about the business side of men's style.

However much Tyler Brûlé frustrates me, he frequently covers the topics that interest me and within his Observation column in Monocle he talks about playing shop. I visited the Monocle shop in November last year and at just nine square metres in size (it is only a touch larger than my childhood bedroom which only allowed my bed, a small television set and my Sega Mega Drive) the space has been beautifully designed and furnished so it feels welcoming and feels so homely. After over two months of trading Tyler Brûlé feels there is a core of consumers who are looking for a more personal, hands on approach to minding a shop. I couldn't agree more! My favourite shops are the ones which have a strong but friendly and welcoming ownership. bstore which is now in it's seventh year has gone from strength to strength and this can only be down to the vision, drive and commitment of the two owners, Kirk Beattie and Matt Murphy (and maybe a little luck). We featured parts of an insightful interview Matt Murphy gave with Ponystep and I have to admit that I re-read this from time to time and it inspires me...Another prime example of how a shop owner should be is Daniel Jenkins who has single-handedly put Monmouth (a small town in Wales, population 8407) on the men's style map and is always buying in great menswear. As mentioned on the blog previously, I met up with Dan at the last MAN show and this guys passion and knowlege for menswear is in my experience unparalleled...and over a beer before the show he was taking calls from designers and customers alike. I just wish more store owners shared these attributes but they really are few and far between.

In a recent interview with BUCK, Creative Director of oki-ni, John Skelton, predicts that 'there is going to be a real return to the independent retail mentality of old, where small/independent stores will make their money by offering something different.' Over the last year or two, we have certainly seen a number of retailers, large and small, offering emerging menswear talent and I hope this continues into 2009 and beyond. There is undoubtedly a market, where people like myself, are eager to buy designs from recent graduates and small fashion teams but this market is certainly not the safe option: the demise of London-based fashion concept store twosee which showcased avant-garde designers but is unfortunately closing it's doors at the end of this month is testament to the difficulties. The Shop At Bluebird (even the website is down) used to be a favourite of mine and I managed to pick up a number of pieces from emerging design talent but in recent visits I have become frustrated by the 'safe' Buying, there is no longer a place for brands like Unconditional and Omar Kashoura, they have been replaced by much more established brands. Yawn.

The UK used to be dubbed as the nation of shopkeepers but in recent years the landscape has changed from busy, bustling stores to empty and even boarded up stores. I can honestly count the number of exciting stores in London using my fingers. Tyler Brûlé mentions how Japan's lost decade was the catalyst for the rise of a new. super talented merchant class that kept the retail scene buoyant despite the dire state of the economy. Let's hope that one positive outcome of the recent troubling economic times will be a new breed of shop keepers. It would be great if the UK could be crowned as the nation of menswear shopkeepers.

There is a lot that could be said on this subject so I feel that this is only the beginning. I would like to hear your thoughts thoughts though....What in your eyes makes a good menswear store? What would you like to see store owners do in the year ahead and beyond?

Eager for a Werther's Original from Bond

OK, I should warn you in advance that this is a slightly strange post but welcome to the inner thoughts of my odd, little mind....I picked up the latest issue of Monocle earlier this evening and as I was flicking through the pages somewhat excitedly over my Mocha in a crowded coffee chain I encountered the sight of an old friend on the back cover. Sean Connery is the second grandad I've always wished I had so it is always nice to see him now and again. Here he stars in the new Louis Vuitton ad shot by Annie Leibovitz and tonight was the first time that I've seen it. I have grown up with the best James Bond ageing very well indeed whilst he starred in some great films and a number of bad ones. In the shot taken close to his Bahamas home, Connery is the picture of masculine cool - I wish I look this good when I reach 78. Mr. Connery if you are reading this, you can give me a Werther's Original anytime.

The Editor informs...The Burberry Belly Warmer Explained

We have a number of interviews at various stages of completion but over the coming week or two you should be entertained as we launch our 'Style Salvage Speaks To...' feature. We have spoken to a number of people involved in men's style, including designers, editors and stylists and are enjoying getting different perspectives on our favourite subject. One of the first interviews posted will be our discussion with BUCK where we spoke with Editor and Founder, Steve Doyle and Fashion Editor Elliott James Sainsbury, the night before they went off to Milan. During the course of our long chat Steve mentioned that he was going to launch his own blog and he certainly meant it because Doyle Says is already live!

In his very first post he has taught me something. Although it was an unexciting and uneventful Burberry AW09 show, my heart skipped a bit for the folksy knit cummerbunds, whilst Steve agrees that this was one of the standout pieces he sheds some light onto this accessory which I thank him for:

"In Japan, this is known as a haramaki. A very traditional garment, originating out of armour that the Samurai once wore, it is said that, by keeping your belly warm, it is good for your health."

One of the most iconic haramaki wearers is apparently Tora San. A film critic once said that in Japan, his face was more recognizable than the emperor’s; fans call him “the bum from Shibamata.” He is the sake-loving, itinerant salesman who starred in the longest-running film series in history.

In recent years there has been resurgence of popularity in the haramaki in Japan (as supported by this article in Pingmag) but of course they do not have much in common with their historical predecessors that were made for armour...although an armour one would be interesting!

I lapplaud designers when they look further afield and to the past for inspiration. As I said on the Fashion156 blog, Bailey's designed belly accessory could not be further from what I imagine a cummerbund to be. I have always found this traditional piece to be rigid , uncomfortable and somewhat dull but these folksy yet chic creations were beautiful in their versatility. Have you come across a haramaki before the Burberry show?

Japanese Dandyism on show in Italy

Members of the 'Japanese Fashion Flock' as captured by the Sartorialist for Men.Style

We often say within posts and the comments section (particularly from one rather persistent fellow, naming no names...Thom...this post is dedicated to you) that Japan does everything better. It does seem that we as men's style commentators spend a large chunk of our time salivating over designers, brands, magazines and the people of Japan wishing that we could either speak the language, lived there or looked as cool.

During their coverage of Pitti and Milan The Moment mentioned the rise of the new Japanese dandy.

'I have to say that the Japanese fashion flock are stealing the show here. Amazing personal style, with what is becoming a bit of a signature look for a group of them: very natty, often checked sport jackets, worn with a coordinated checked shirt underneath a crew-neck sweater, along with slender pressed gray flannel trousers, argyle or some other colored sock and a very fine English shoe.'

I agree with everything above, except the fact that this is new because season after season I have marvelled at the Japanese fashion flock when captured by The Sartorialist. The mix of fabrics and attention to detail really sets these gents apart, we should all take note. If you aren't doing so already I suggest that you take a look at the street style photography outside of the shows...it can be much more interesting than the shows themselves.

Topman Calling

Topman have asked us to spread the net in their hunt for creative talent and we thought that we just had to pass on the opportunity to you as we know how talented you are. Topman are on the hunt for movie makers and budding photographers to capture the highlight of the London Fashion Week calender, the MAN Show on 25th February.

MAN will enter it’s 8th successful season as it opens the final day of London Fashion Week on 25th February 2009. It proves that British menswear is fighting strong and making it’s mark and you could be a part of it.

You will get behind the scenes and squeeze your way into the end pf the runway whilst taking pictures and shooting the show for Topman. If you would love a chance to cover the event all you have to do is send a few examples of your work in to contribute@topman.com

Miuccia's Studs

Studded Shoe Close Up - courtesy of DazedDigital's backstage coverage.

I will be speaking to The Sunday Best at the end of the week to run through the goings on at Pitti, Capsule and Milan so I will not divulge too much just yet (although if you are interested my initial thoughts can be read over on the Fashion156 daily blog. After Miuccia deciding to surprise us all by showing a day early, I just couldn't resist posting about the studded shirts and shoes.

As great as the catwalking images are, backstage photos bring the collections to life. The strong, tailored black looks imposed themselves and took control of the runway but flashes of distinction came in the form of studs and leather and this is what impressed me most. Last season Balenciaga provided the most talked about brogues but Prada's studded offering will be difficult to top this season. Inspired by Rumi of FashionToast I might just have to mess around with a stud gun...although I'm not sure I have the patience or the skill and there is more chance of me having to visit the hospital than walking in modified shoes.

I will now sit on my hands and refrain from posting too much more on the shows. My conversation with Thom is bound to be full of head nodding, finger waving, laughter, tears and so much more.

In the Market for Spring

Susie posted about our afternoon trip to Dover Street Market where we watched the biannual transformation of the store, out with the old and in with S/S 09., but I just two add my two pennies worth. If I wasn't longing for someone to hit the fast forward button on this grey, dull winter enough already, this visit to Dover Street Market was the straw which broke this camel's back. I no longer long for Spring, I demand it!

As always the third floor is my favourite, as Alber Elbaz knows how to put on a good show and his space, in particular his menswear space is encroaching and indeed taking over other areas. The Lanvin show held joint first placed (in my mind) with Burberry with creating the menswear that I'd love to wear and seeing the collection in person only confirmed my choice. The mix of fabrics, textures and subtle tones helped create an almost perfect Spring collection. I just wanted to run off with the chap mannequin who was watching over the web chat scenario because it was styled so well....

As amazing as the third floor was, it was great to see these blinding accessories by Raf Simons up close and personal...I could actually see my face in the reflective surface. EJ posted a link to them over on our twitter last week and the most common reaction was simply 'Wow!' I have to say, that when I saw them in the store, my subconscious mutterings echoed that reaction. They certainly are statement accessories and if they are blinding in the middle of a grey January, I can only think that once worn in July as the sun crashes (hopefully) down us they will create an Antony Gormley 'White Light' world...Just imagine what would happen if a cyclist wore the hi tops at the height of Summer, it would certainly end in bloody tears...

I have said it before but if you are ever in London, my advice to you is avoid the usual, over crowded department stores and take a walk through Dover Street Market and you can thank me later.

Picture postcard: ready for action

Found here

Howdy Steve!

From personal uniforms to real uniforms... I thought you'd appreciate these chaps. You know how much I love wide legged trousers, and these are no exception. I know that you shocked a few of our readers by admitting that you weren't a fan of leather coats, but surely these lovely brown jackets must meet your approval?

Oh, and that reminds me... I really must shine my shoes.

EJ

Thanks for posting this. It is beautiful.

I just love this image. It awakes the child in me who dreams of one day being a fighter pilot and looking just like this. On the style stakes this is perfect. Yes, I'm not a huge fan of leather jackets but the brown leather works so well combined with the wide legged trousers and shiney boots. I'm not sure that I'm quite macho enough to pull this look off though.

On the uniform front, have you seen this image from Pitti Uomo...

Thom Browne's presentation declared that there is 'Beauty is Uniformity.' Something uniform was promised and duly delivered by the militarily precise arrival of forty models identically dressed in signature Thom Browne looks. The 41st model then pressed the desktop bell a number of times and the models carried out the required action. It sounds perfect. We have to return to the uniform concept at a later post because there is just so much to say.

Keeping it in the family

I love this shot of Charlie and Joe Casely-Hayford in their white shirts.

I picked up a copy of the latest issue of i-D over the weekend and I must say, the Manhood issue is far better than any issue that I've read for as long as I can remember, for a start it doesn't feel and read like a love letter to the 90s. Within the issue I came across Casely-Hayford who are the first brand in high fashion to have a father and son working together at the creative helm. Joe has long demonstrated his ability to draw upon and connect his formal training in tailoring and fashion . Throughout his career he has pushed and examined menswear with his intriguing and influential innovation. From the deconstructed tailoring of the 80s (three dimensional lapels and exposed seams) to oversized knitwear and the fusion between sportswear and formal clothing in the 90s. Now this well seasoned hand has joined forces with his son, Charlie, who has to be one of London's most stylish chaps (I remember this Sartorialist shot in particular) who has recently become the face of Dr Martens alongside Coco Summer..

Here is an excerpt from the i-D interview...

i-D: What prompted this new father-son venture?
JCH: I still feel as excited as when when I first walked through the doors of St. Martins. I don't feel like I've created my greatest work yet. It seemed natural to take this step with Charlie who has been a confidant and collaborator for some time. I have a great deal of respect for Charlie's discipline and focus. His input isn't always that of the young avant garde experimentalist. He is often conservative and pensive and approaches things from a classical standpoint. So it isn't predetermined that I stand for tradition and he the innovation. We believe that no other brand can capture the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy, and celebrate the beauty of high art and street culture simultaneously. We aim to offer a new and considered vision of English style in the 21st Century.

The duality of the brand reflects Joe's design history which has seen him creating stage clothes for bands like Clash to dressing the highest members of the British establishment whilst at Gieves & Hawkes.




Within their first show they combine the urbane qualities of Edward VIII, the first modern day English sartorialist, with the contemporary sportswear of London's street culture. The sense of duality is continued with a simultaneous emphasis on lightness and substance. Technical fabrics are fused with formal wear, sporting items formalised through the use of fine silk dog tooth jersey fabric, whilst contemporary twists underplay suits.

One of the main concepts behind the house is celebrating "Made in Japan, designed in London", with the British spirit clearing running through the clothes. The majority of the products are made in Japan (we often say that the Japanese do most things better) with a smaller part of the collection made by craftsmen in the UK and Italy. Shoes are bench made in Northampton, hand made silk ties are woken in Italy; printed silk scarves come from Italy and hand knitted pieces from Scotland. The focus is on creativity, attention to detail and craftsmanship, I wish every brand focused on the same ideals.

I am fascinated by the father and son element to this brand and can't help but think that I wish that my father was a leading designer. This is certainly a brand to keep an eye on. The label is currently only being stocked in Dover St Market in London and a few places in Japan.

Accessories for the Spring I long for

Just as their Autumn/winter accessories left a lasting impression on me...oh I still dream of having my very own feather tie...Lanvin’s Spring/Summer 2009 accessories collection (as shown on Selectism) comes along and all I want to do is press fast forward and skip the day after day of grey and embrace a new, brighter, warmer season. Lucas Ossendrijver's vision of Spring accessories includes a denim shopping bag (refer to our denim post), a sky blue tote which will hopefully soon be mirroring the sky and a collection of textured ties with intricate detailing. Of course, there are new variations of the accessories we have come to expect from the brand which in my mind and many of yours leads the pack, with new hi tops, belts, hats, belts and sandals to marvel at.

One pair of hi tops in particular have caught my eye. The theme of texture created by intricate detailing is continued from the ties and into the pair on the very left, which come in a mouth watering light purple. All in all this is a smart and varied collection and there really should be something for everyone. Of course the price takes them out of my eager reach but that has not stopped me from being inspired to shop around and even think about a little modification project.


I've never been attracted to straw hats before but the Lanvin SS09 show changed all that. I loved how the distressed and beaten up hats were given a new lease of life dressed up in silk ribbons and flowers. Surely this has to be one of the easiest little modification projects around...the search for a battered straw hat will begin shortly. There might be a small chance of looking a little silly in such a hat but I need to give it a go and I want to be more adventurous this Spring. Even if it is a disaster, I will certainly have fun making it and any embellishment detailing can be re-cycled in to a lapel detail. I can't lose and neither can you if you decide to give this a go.

Personal uniform

Found here

Both of us here at Style Salvage have been enjoying Valet in recent weeks, but one article in particular caught my eye.

The idea of a personal uniform is something that I've been mulling over since before we even started the blog. I know without a doubt that, without really thinking about it, I've developed my own personal uniform which consists of jeans, t shirt and cardigan. I own a slightly silly number of dresses and some very nice skirts, but day after day the ease and comfort of jeans appeals to my lazy, comfort-obsessed side. When I write this down, this makes me sound very conservative and boring (and I'd be inclined to agree), but I think it also highlights the importance of smaller details. Colour is very important to me- I'm not a head to toe black person- so lately I've been trying out almost all purple outfits or different combinations of colours. The relative safety of the uniform outfit gives me the confidence to try out more outlandish accessories or outwear- a new cape, a large, flashy brooch or the like.

I think the important thing to bear in mind if you do embrace this idea is to keep assessing and reassessing what you're wearing and how you're wearing it. What properly represented you, or made you look good, two years ago may not be so fitting (in both senses of the word) now that you've lost three stone or got that high-powered job. Just because you've got the formula right, doesn't mean it's always going to be right.

This article just makes me think of non-uniform day at school. Once the excitement of being allowed to wear whatever we wanted died down., it soon became clear that we had all opted for the same thing. T-shirts, blue jeans and white trainers had replaced shirt and tie, black trousers and shoes. What a difference!


After just a few months in to my last job I realised that a definite uniform had been born. A safe, somewhat unadventurous style (similarly to yours) consisting of polo shirt, colorful merino wool sweater, jeans and either my suede bstore lace ups (if I was feeling fancy) or trainers. There was very little deviation from this. The informal work environment had a strange effect... maybe there was just too much choice for me. Of course, a significant chunk of my wardrobe would have raised eyebrows on many of my colleagues faces but that didn't really effect my outfit decisions... it had much more to do with comfort. Another reason is that when I buy something new, I just love wearing it and thus the wear and then wash cycle begins. With regard to shopping, Richard Haines's mentality of having less, but owning quality is one that should certainly be adopted...although at times I feel that there is just so much quality on offer... can't I have both quantity and quality?

However, writing this blog and attempting to keep track of my outfits on wardrobe remix (as well as dating Susie) has pushed me to be more adventurous and change things. I definitely recommend keeping some form of style diary because it makes you really think about what you are wearing and how it evolves (however large or small) over time. The key to dressing well is to find what best suits you and to have fun at the same time. In a recent feature on WWD Thom Browne stated...“It’s the beauty in the uniformity that I find refreshing. Not having so much choice is what I find refreshing,” Indeed, Browne is well known for his regimented daily habits, which extend to the shrunken grey suits and white button-down oxford shirts he dons every morning. Having rewritten the rules of suiting up, Mr Browne certainly doesn’t deviate from them. I'm just not sure that this is for me... at the moment at least.

Once you've found that secret formula (if it even exists) of a great outfit the key is to tweak as you go, accessories and colour can certainly be experimented with. Have you embraced a uniform?

Back(pack) to school

Whenever we are in a mile radius of Berwick Street, Susie cannot resist visiting her favourite treasure trove of handpicked women's (and men's) vintage, secondhand designer and high street clothing which is Bang Bang. As Susie rummages through the racks, I leave her to it and venture downstairs into the menswear department but as she constantly finds bargains, I have always left empty handed. The stock is frequently updated so it is all down to luck and timing but of course an eye for a bargain helps and I've never quite been able to find something which ticks all my boxes. Raf Simon coats and Savile Row suits are most common...it is all down to finding your size though which I struggle on.

When I ventured into the store this weekend I was greeted with a few sample pieces by the Australian designer, Material Boy. Mic Eaton, an ex-pro surfer, launched the label in 2003 in Perth but now divides his time between Melbourne and Indonesia. Topman Lens recently featured their designs and it is clear that this is a label which pushes menswear out of its comfort zone and it is hard not to admire the label’s originality. Ordinarily, I appreciate the designs but they aren't really to my taste...but that soon changed when I stumbled across a sample, black leather Rucksack...my Bang Bang cheery just had to be popped.

My childhood revisited - Vintage grey wool jacket, polka dot shirt by bstore, polka dot hankerchief, wrap trousers by Unconditional, white chukkas by Vans.

I've not used a backpack/rucksack in about ten years, during my last years of school and University I plumped for satchels and messenger bags instead. However, in recent months I have been on the look out for a desirable rucksack just because they are so darn useful! After seeing some of the pieces from the Raf Simons x Eastpak collaboration, I have been severely tempted on a number of occasions but I could never fully justify paying that sort of money for something which is fundamentally an Eastpak backpack...something we all had growing up. I needed something special and up stepped the offering from Material Boy.

(Feel free to click on the images to take a closer a look)

As I put the leather straps over my shoulders, a strange feeling came over me...I felt like a young boy again...was shopping or school my destination?...even Susie noticed a change. It was most strange and it soon passed as I became acquainted with my new favourite bag.

Tailoring as an art form

It was bitterly cold in London yesterday and the (sorry excuse) for snow began to fall we decided to seek comfort in Claire de Rouen Books and I'm glad we did! As well as being able to flick through all the fashion and photography books that I wish I could have on my coffee table (if I even had a coffee table that is) I came across the artwork of Hormazd Narielwalla within EXIT Gallery's "A Fairytale About Fashion" exhibition. Narielwalla's Dead Man’s Patterns is a design story, beneath the trappings of menswear into the book, the man, the pattern. It quite beautifully exposes the secret every tailor has with his clients, the pattern and the journey to the finished suit. I've always seen tailoring as an art form but the below illustrations take this a step further.

The world of tailoring has always been somewhat secretive. Measurements are kept close and patterns preserved long after a client’s death. In Dead Man’s Patterns Narielwalla unwraps some of the mysteries of the trade. Hidden beneath bespoke menswear, there is a secret… Everyone sees the suit, yet few are privy to that private dialogue which assesses, measures, and catalogues the subtle details which make up one single man.

These wonderful images and reading the inspiration behind them only intensify my own desire to enter the wonderful world of bespoke...to begin my own secret...

Your lapel has options

As soon as I clicked on Valet (for my daily dose) yesterday I was treated to another look at Antonio Azzuolo ss09 collection. I have to admit that I gave most of the Spring/Summer 09 shows little more than an unimpressed, fleeting glance...more fool me. A couple of month on and now I am finding myself noticing more and more from these collections. Antonio Azzuolo collections are always styled well and this time round the flowers in the lapels were replaced with pinned plumage (designed by Brooklyn Artist Christian Fastrup) which dandified the collection. The feathers were the highlight for me and now need to beg/borrow/steal or indeed make something similar.

As I debated with myself as to which feathers would look best in each of my jackets, I noticed the below text...

"You likely haven't tacked anything onto your jacket's lapel since senior prom, but these jaunty feather boutonnieres have a lot more style than that little flower."

Valet Mag - A feather in your jacket.

This is sadly true for a lot of us...I guess when we are feeling crazy we might pin a flower (or at the very least a poppy on Remembrance Sunday) but on the whole, our lapel is often naked. In recent weeks I've noticed that there are a wealth of options to dress up an old/new jacket. Below are my two current favourites and ones I'm eager to try...

Feathers

According to Valet and Antonio Azzuollo, 'Real Men wear feathers.' I'm not sure that I consider myself a real man...I would still class myself as something much more like boy like...but I aspire to wear feathers, peacock and pheasant feathers in particular. As soon as I get the chance I will take a trip in to central to marvel at the plumage on offer at MacCulloch&Wallis (the best haberdashery around). The Valet feature showcases handmade feather pins by a German company which has been producing them in a small factory on the outskirts of the Black Forest since 1924, and they a bargain at $40 from the Cooper-Hewitt museum shop.

Lego

This is probably the lapel choice of the moment. Will it last? Who cares, I just like Lego so why not have a little fun with it! As soon as the Lego brooch appeared on the lapel of Kanye's well cut suit during the promotion of 808s and Heartbreak, it was destined to be talked about and desired by many. We featured the designer twins (Dee & Ricky) who were responsible for the brooch but this would make for a relatively easy DIY project. I really wish I hadn't had to throw all of my bricks away...Brandish recently suggested Hamba beads as a cheap alternative.

These are just two of my current favourite ways to breathe fresh life (and colour) into a suit jacket. The options really are endless. I plan on experimenting with as many as I can this Spring, including the floral pins by Kate Cusack I mentioned yesterday (thanks again to Blindman's Circus for bringing these to my attention)....Of course once Spring actually comes, there will be a plethora of real flowers to pick from...then again as EJ posted last Valentines Day there are always flowers out there which can be clipped and pinned on to brighten any winter coat all you have to do is look for them.

Which lapel accessory is to your personal taste?

Will 2009 see the return of flower power?

Flower Print - Two looks from the Obedient Son SS 09 runway, Silk Libery Pockerchiefs and shirt by Shipley & Halmos.

The chaps over at men.style have looked into their crystal balls and seen a few key items which make up their spring fashion forecast for 2009. The twelve item list is a relatively small one, but the trends it mentions are well worth considering...I am sure that there are a few that you'll adapt to your own wardrobe in the coming months if you've not done so already.

The most interesting of the bunch was without a doubt libery prints. For this they say "Thanks to the green thumbs of labels like Shipley & Halmos, Obedient Sons, and Liberty of London (which lent its trademark blooms to Steven Alan for shirts, ties, and boxers), look for flowers to have more power than ever in '09."

Mix of floral print as captured by the Sartorialist back in May.

Upon reading this my mind began racing, trying to think of successful examples of where flower prints have been used to make an outfit (aside from the ones mentioned in the feature). I have to admit that I couldn't think of too many recent examples...the aw 08 lookbook of Jaiden rVa James featured were by far the best I could think of...when I was close to a headache, the above image popped into my head. I saw this chap during my time at the Hyeres Festival and like most people just couldn't stop staring at his mix of floral prints (I mentioned him in a post way back in May). He approached the prints without fear and although it probably shouldn't have worked, it most certainly did.

For me, floral prints are a little tricky to wear well but rather than be put off by them we should see them as a challenge. If you are feeling far from brave why not try sporting this silk Liberty print pockerchief? Blindman's Circus recently featured Floral Pins by Kate Cusack which would surely finish off almost any outfit...This Spring we should all take the time to pick some flowers.

Baths and secret shopping: An evening in with Monocle Weekly

I had the flat to myself last night and chose to spend the last part of my free time in the best place possible...A hot bath accompanied by Issey Miyake frangrance infused bubbles (a Christmas present) and keeping me company was the second edition of the Monocle Weekly and a cup of tea. Ever since I played in the bath with my Donatello action figure (One of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, this model was extra special as it had an effective swimming action), I have enjoyed spending at least half an hour so at a time immersed in bubbles and steam - there is a stigma of sorts attached to using this bathing method but I don't care who knows!

The first edition of Monocle Weekly for 2009 is just over twenty eight minutes long which is a pretty perfect amount of time to play around in a bath...any longer and there is a danger of emerging prune like out of the water. It discusses the run up to the inauguration of 'that one' and some tales of Iceland but more interestingly for us, discusses the status of the premium menswear market in light of the near apocalyptic financial conditions. The show is far from perfectly executed but it is refreshing to see this type of thing offered and I recommend listening to it...in a bath of course.

On being introduced the correspondent, Sagra Maceira de Rosen, shares a little joke about the pecking order of shopping in the average household..."first the kids, second the wife, third the pets and fourth the men" which highlights the traditional difficulties effecting the menswear market. It is pretty obvious to me that this hierarchy has been challenged and altered in recent years but it does demonstrate that the menswear market has always been up against it. She then goes on to say that we are facing a very conservative environment which will see a return to brands offering basics. Unfortunately, she makes the obvious point that in a recession, tailoring is one of the things which suffers most (a sad truth). However, one of the positive things which might come out of all of this, is consumers will focus more on value. Value doesn't equate to cheap. Cost per wear is just one equation which is important and should be applied to all purchases. In terms of my own shopping style, over the last couple of months I have really concentrated on buying items which firstly, I need and secondly, that will last. Lasting basics have always important to the menswear market and will be even more so today but I also look to buy more extravagant pieces which could be worn in many years to come. Pieces which will hang in my wardrobe and always offer a good option, like an interestingly cut suit.

The show then discussed something which made me chuckle into my cup of tea. A great deal of attention has focused on the impact of the crisis on retailers, during the final few hectic days before Christmas, reports on the number of shoppers, what they bought etc filled news reports, but none made me laugh like this one. Apparently, in New York within the luxury stores (Hermes is quoted) when people were buying this they were asking for their purchases to be placed in plain, white bags as opposed to branded bags (in truth I've never been too keen on heavily branded bags but then again I don't like anything which is heavily branded). The people who are shopping are somewhat embarrassed by their purchases...if they feel this way, as in if they have something to hide...maybe they should not be buying it in the first place. This scenario made me laugh because it reminds me of people drinking alcohol in the streets but of course using brown paper bags to ingeniously hide the fact that they are drinking. It creates a strange shopping landscape where people can still shop but no one has to know about it.

Have your spending habits changed? If you are shopping, are you doing it behind veils of secrecy?

London Calling Fresh Design Talent

We thought we'd let you know about an exciting competition for all our budding designer readers (as we know you're out there). We'd love to see you enter and make us proud! Here are the details:

Fashion156 and Start London are offering the chance to win a unique opportunity to showcase your design talent (if you have any)! Fashion156 consistently unearth and then shine the spotlight on up and coming designers. Now they have joined forces with Start London to widen the search for the design stars of tomorrow, so if you have got what it takes... it could be you! This competition will offer two individuals with raw design talent the chance to see their creations brought to life on the pages of fashion156.com and sold in Start boutiques. What a way to start 2009!

Shorts and Twin Set Sheer Top and Cardigan by James Long as featured in the latest issue of Fashion156...your design could feature in future issues...

The competition is open to students, graduates and anyone with a brand-new label that is not already established. Designers (both menswear and womenswear) are invited to submit their ideas; this should be in the form of a series of detailed sketches or photographs which must be original, directional designs for Spring/Summer 2009.

The closing date for initial entries is 31st January 2009 so you'd better start sketching! The ten designers which the judges feel have best conceptualised their ideas will be invited to produce an actual garment and the winning designs will be selected from this shortlist. All ten finalists will be featured on the fashion156 and Start London websites with readers invited to judge and vote for their favourite design. The winning designs will be sold in store and online in March.

For further information drop an email to info@fashion156.com

Effortless Cool defined by an image

If I were to make a dictionary of over used phrases of the English language I would surely include 'effortless style' and accompanying my text would be this image. In practice, for most of us at least, pulling of this style is anything but effortless. Successfully achieving this look is very much like achieving the 'bed head' hairstyle...copious amounts of product and mirror preening are required! This chap as captured by the Sartorialist is effortless cool.

Ordinarily, I might have just linked to this Sartorialist capture over on our twitter account but I felt that it deserved more than just a tinyurl link. Points will surely be knocked off for posing with the cigarette but everything else about it is perfect. Giancinephile recently posted on the Cult of the Effortless Cool where he discussed Paul Helbers words in Man About Town where he described how a 'dirty' casual French look makes a man attractive and intriguing and I do buy into that. Of course, I very much enjoy making the effort but on my off days, I wouldn't mind looking like the chap above...

With regards to the photographer, well, over the course of the last two days we have all been reminded (if there was any doubt) that the Sartorialist is certainly very much still sitting pretty at the top of all Street Style blogs.

No no no no NO! His hair is DREADFUL. It looks like mine when I've just towel dried it crossed with a mad professor's. The outfit is ok but tame. As for the Sartorialist... sorry, but Garance Dore is my favourite nowadays.

Ha, you are being very judgemental this evening! His hair is being blown in the wind so I think the mad professor claim is harsh to say the least! I agree that Garance Dore takes better pictures but sadly she rarely points her camera at men...which is why until she focuses on more men she will not replace the Sartorialist as my personal favourite!

And the winner is....

Happy Tuesday to one and all. As we all return back to our 'normal' lives following the long festive break all remnants of Christmas will be coming down to day (sadly the tree will be in the trash by this evening) and even more heartbreaking...there are very few presents left to open. However, our Happy Socks sponsored sock giveaway allows one lucky reader with the chance to start the new afresh and the draw has just taken place...queue drum rolls...and the winner is Fuschiaboy, congratulations! Thanks for entering everyone and for those of you who didn't win, better luck next time!

2009 is the year I wake up to denim

Ever since my eyes were assaulted by a number of ill fitting all denim ensembles as I was growing up (images of Bon Jovi and more recently that picture of Britney and Justin wearing matching denim ensembles still haunt me to this day) so I tend to avoid denim. This fear has meant the only part denim has played in my wardrobe is to provide a few pairs of that icon of popular culture which are jeans...and nothing more. Over the years I have embarked on a number of quests to find the perfect pair of jeans, trying every manufacturer and style that I could get my hands on which has resulted in me drawing the conclusion that (in terms of menswear at least) there is little worse than shopping for this particular staple...If you are interested I fell in love with the french label APC two years ago now and wear little else because they fit me perfectly, although Uniqlo provide colourful alternatives which should not be overlooked. On the whole, when it comes to denim, despite a number of brands creating interesting denim creations I have let my preconceptions cloud my better judgement and ultimately I have not given this classic yet ever popular fabric the attention and imagination that it deserves. The time for change is now.

A number of Spring Summer 09 look books combined with a well written and image sourced piece within the latest issue of BUCK (which is in my opinion the best yet and will be reviewed later this week) have only heightened the intensity of the light bulb which hovers cartoon like above my head...denim offers more than mere jeans and should be celebrated and worn with gusto this Spring and beyond. The below collages show just some of the denim pieces, including shirts, backpacks and even jeans, which have made me open my eyes to this versatile and stylish fabric...

(Please click on the images to see them in all their glory and to save yourself squinting...)

The collages document a number of pieces from a variety of brands but hopefully they show my newly found admiration for denim. There are a few pieces which warrant more attention so I've picked out a few collections to give a little more information...

I've already noted on the blog how the Lanvin x Acne collaboration made me see denim in a different light so it should be no surprise that it features heavily here. Within this collection denim was used to create a relaxed formal and all round effortless style where rich textures and fabrics were used in a subtle combinations with denim. We saw deconstructed blazers and double breasted jackets teamed with denim shorts and loose fitting trousers, in a variety of hues (from my favourite indigo to that Spring favourite pale blue).

During Amsterdam Fashion Week, the first edition of the Amsterdam Denim Award was unanimously given to Eric Lebon. The Jury members which included Diane Pernet (A Shaded View on Fashion), Mr Yuji Yamasaki (buyer Beams Japan) and the Austrian designers Helga Schania and Hermann Fankhauser (Wendy&Jim) had the following to say: "Lebon creates a complete image which – as far as the silhouette and the use of denim are concerned – is innovative, yet comprehensible."

The work of Latvian artists and designers Mārīte Mastiņa and Rolands Pēterkops (both graduates of the Design and Art School of Riga) under the denim line MRJeans was recently featured on DazedDigital and StyleBubble and the combination of the surreal (both in terms of the photography and in the pieces themselves) with the basic has really left an impression. Jackets have asymmetrical cuts, innovative details are added to denim trousers whilst checked shirts have multiple collars layered one on top of the other that create a multi-structured effect

I've seen glimpses of the next instalment of the Raf Simons x Eastpak collaboration and the denim pieces are wonderful...overpriced but wonderful. I'm torn on the backpack because for me this is one of the best accessories that I've seen for some time but because it is essentially an Eastpak backpack (which were bought as widely affordable schoolbags in my youth), I don't think I can suppress the shrieks of pain and disbelief brought about at the £200 price tag...Away from the Eastpak collaboration Raf Simons has been experimenting with denim for both Jil Sander (as reported on WWD) and his very own Raf by Raf Simons label. The BUCK article showcased a couple pairs of dyed and bleached jeans from the Raf by Raf Simons (which I couldn't track down online) and have instilled a strong desire to replicate something similar by purchasing a cheap pair of red Uniqlo jeans and playing with bleach...as soon as I get my act together I will give it a go and let you see the results...

In summary, there can be little doubt that jeans are a true staple, Yves Saint Laurent once remarked; "I have often said that I wish I had invented blue jeans: the most spectacular, the most practical, the most relaxed and nonchalant. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity - all I hope for in my clothes." In my mind, up until recently at least, denim equals jeans and little else. Judging by its inclusion in a significant number of SS09 shows and look books we will be seeing a lot more of denim in the coming months. Previously, this might have scared me but now I am eager to experiment with this great fabric.

New Year... (Old) New Socks Competition

What better way to start the new afresh than with four new pairs of socks? We unveiled the Happy Socks competition back before Christmas and although we have had a number of entries already... well, we forgot to give a closing date and then Christmas came along and made us forget about it almost all together (we will work on our forgetfulness in 2009).

The entries already submitted are in the hat, the rest of you have until January 5th to drop us an email with your name and email address to stylesalvage@gmail.com...the winner will be contacted on January 6th.

New year, new year

Found here

Dear readers! 2009 is as good a reason as any to make some changes and to look ahead. Nothing too drastic, don't you worry. We will be cutting down a little on the more 'news' type posts, mostly because we feel that so many other blogs do this already while other facets of men's style blogging are somewhat under represented (we will still be commenting on some news items though!). We'll be posting more links to that sort of thing (and a whole load of other crap) over on our twitter account so if you aren't following us, please do.

So what WILL we be writing about? We're hoping to do a lot more interviews and have a few up our sleeves for the New Year but if you have any requests or recommendations of who we should be interviewing then please let us know... Steve will be discussing the AW 09 shows with Thom of The Sunday Best while EJ will be largely ignoring them... We WILL start writing that shop guide (the form of which is still undecided but it will cover both online and physical boutiques...even outside of London)... We'll continue discussing the looks we love and the films/videos/photos that inspire us... We'll be posting more varied outfit shots and dressing up that little bit more... We'll be providing more magazine reviews... and we'll be doing so much more, the ideas for which have yet to form in our tiny little minds...

All in all 2008 was a good year but 2009 should be even sweeter, Happy New Year to you all.