Thursday, 25 March 2010

A closer look at J. Lindeberg's The True North

Taking a closer look at J. Lindeberg's AW10 collection, 'The True North'

After an extremely lazy day yesterday I decided to shake off my jet lag with a productive afternoon of press day visits. One of the real highlights of the day was J. Lindeberg's AW10 collection, 'The True North'. I first encountered the collection's mix of functionality and elegance over on Selectism last month but it was great to finally get my hands on it today. The collection is essentially inspired by the utility and function of workwear but has been reimagined for the modern world, utilising technical advancements and tailoring...

Reimagined work wear, a few key looks from AW10

Authentic garments have been shaped and further developed with technical fabric mixes and construction methods, yet everything remain true to their heritage. Ultimately more formal in their silhouette, utility outerwear is reworked to ensure that it is ready for the modern day urban challenges. Since its very first collection in 97, J. Lindeberg has successfully combined fashion with sportswear. The brands main collection is often inspired by the technical advancements of its progressive golf and ski ranges. The padded down herringbone down blazer (shown centre above) is, for me, one of the key pieces that illustrates this collections focus. It combines classic tailoring characteristics with modern functionality, an inspiring marriage for next winter.

The styling for the pieces were spot on for the season. Work wear inspired shirting is layered over one another whilst boiled and heavy knitwear are worn under blazers.

The collection showcases my own personal favourite hues for the colder months. The deep and intense colour palette ranges from icy blues to purple to the numerous shades of grey all of which are inspired by the Scandinavian horizon. These are contrasted against vibrant tones of the ever transforming colours of Autumnal leaves and you should all remember how much I'm inspired by these! The best way to illustrate the palette while showing you a few key looks is to offer up a few selections from the look book itself in addition to the shots I took myself...

A closer look at one of the key pieces of the collection...the rumble patch tweed down blazer
worn with a Ward B. D. Dashing Oxford and Eddie Vintage Cords.

Left; Draper flannel check blazer, Hammond vintage check shirt worn over a Ward B. D Dashing Oxford and Egdar authentic rinse selvedge denim. Right; Thom Austrian wool cardigan, Ward B. D Dashing Oxford shirt, sixtyfive solid wool tie and Egdar authentic rinse selvedge denim.

Left; Fielding compact melton jacket and Camber vintage wool stripe trousers. Right; Henry heavy felted knit cardigan, Ward Poplin shirt, sixtyfive solid wool tie and Camber vintage wool stripe trousers.

Left; Jetson boiled merino knit, Ward B. D fog poplin shirt and Camber vintage wool stripe trousers. Right; Marvin brand knit, ward heavy chambre shirt worn over ward B.D fog poplin shirt and Camber vintage wool stripe trousers.

Left; Brenson leathered copa jacket, ward poplin shirt, sixtyfive solid wool tie and Camber vintage wool stripe trousers. Right; Hammond vintage felt check shirt worn over a Ward B. D Oxford and Edgar authentic rinse selvedge denim.

The collection is undoubtedly a statement of real intent from the recently appointed Artistic Director, Pierangelo D' Agostin. "It's all about contrasts; in spirits, moods, colours and fabrics. The urban speed of life versus the serenity and tranquility of nature" remarks D' Agostin. In addition to being the former Head Designer at Jil Sander, D'Agostin has worked across various fashion disciplines, including Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row to progressive Japanese retailer Isetan, resulting in experience that has certainly brought a renewed strength to J. Lindeberg.

In addition to marveling at this collection, the visit allowed me to flick through their second biannual. This Scandinavian brand is well-known for the quality of its garments and for its unique philosophy and it is great to see it evolve in this manner. In the same fashion as the first biannual which I was fortunate enough to receive last season, the J. Lindeberg team have called in the help of a few close friends and sent them off with a single mission - to capture the inner spirit of the brand and in particular their SS10 collection.

One of the inspiring spreads from the SS10 biannual.

The story it waves is one that expands way beyond the realms of the standard look book and runway views we are all accustomed to seeing. There are one hundred and eighty two pages of beautiful pictures and illustrations, alongside insightful interviews. I wish more brands pushed themselves to offer more than the usual press materials which circulate after a collection. It is more akin to an issue of Acne Paper or Fantastic Man rather than your usual look book fodder. After this initial peek I can't wait to get my hands on my own copy in the next couple of weeks. For now, I think it apt to summarise that J. Lindeberg is a brand that is continuing its endeavour in redefining modern classics with a Scandinavian point of view, all the while respecting old traditions and combining them with the technical advancements of today. It is a brand that I will certainly continue to keep an eye on...


Anonymous said...

Sorry but this reeks of a fashion brand cashing in on the whole workwear thing that's going on right now.

There does look to be some lovely pieces but overall it feels like a cynical marketing ploy from a brand more at home producing golf wear.

I understand that brands grow and evolve (especially with a change of creative direction) but this feels like chasing a trend.

Am I wrong? I hope so.

Style Salvage Steve said...

Lineage of Influence: Ha, of course I think you are wrong. If I thought that I would not be writing about them. There are far better cases of brands jumping on the work wear trend bandwagon than J. Lindeberg (some of which you have covered yourself!). Under the guidance of D'Agostin J. Lindeberg have come on strides and over the last few seasons (not just this one) the label have taken inspiration from heritage pieces but breathed fresh life in to them. Workwear costume this is not. For me it is refreshing to see. When you have stores on the High Street dedicating aisles to workwear you have to scratch your head in bemusement. As this continues to happen the trend will die and be replaced by something else soon after. The future is more tech based fabrications and influences. In this instance I think you challenge the wrong brand with your argument but then we all have our own opinions, it is what makes menswear blogging so interesting!

Anonymous said...

I thought you might say that!

I'm happy to be wrong and you're certainly right that there's a lot more bandwagon jumping going on than this, especially on the high street (I wrote about this too not so long ago).

I will openly admit that J.Lindeberg are one of those brands that I've never been into (I'm more of a Jill Sander/Margiela man). With regard to the future being tech - it's being going that way for years, this whole 'heritage' trend is just a blip in that (but there are plenty of brands that also combine the two).

Doesn't the high street essentially follow higher fashion trends? So if you have brands like this who aren't really moving things forward (compare this to what Raf's doing for instance, hell at least KVH is trying different stuff at Dior) then we'll continue to have stores full of workwear, like I wrote last week, are we styling ourselves into a corner?

Yeah I love workwear, the military influence etc, I've been wearing a Barbour for half my life (and they weren't cool when I was a lad, they just kept you dry when you were out in the rain), it's a part of my upbringing as a Northern monkey that grew up on a farm that I've begun to embrace but I mix it up with everythign else. I'm amazed it's become 'fashion' if that makes sense.

This is a pub debate in the making, I need to shift my hangover first though, I'm rambling aren't I.

Style Salvage Steve said...

Lineage of Influence: I'm sure we could enjoy much debate over a beer or four. As for rambling, I think you make perfect sense. I agree with your previous post, the Monocle Man is an interesting and unusual development. I will give it some more thought and comment on your post. However, I don't agree that J. Lindeberg aren't doing anything to push menswear forward though, the mix of tailoring and tech advancements with heritage pieces although not necessarily unique to this brand is pulled off extremely well in my opinion. As it is Friday beers are needed.


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