Thursday, 1 July 2010

In Stitches

In addition to the focus honed in on the runways of Milan and Paris in recent weeks, attention has flickered to the various trade shows across Europe and beyond as buyers and press get first sight of the SS11 offerings from old favourites and new discoveries alike. Of course I was fortunate enough to explore the sartorial Disneyland of menswear trade shows in Pitti Uomo but I have still looked longingly at the blog coverage of Capsule, Tranoi (more on this shortly) and Rendezvous. As my peers paw the latest collection on the continent I snatched the opportunity to examine and talk through the SS11 collections of a few leading British designers at Stitch.

Located right by the Thames in Old Billingsgate Market Stitch is the only dedicated menswear and accessories tradeshow in the UK. How could I resist sneaking a peek at the new collections from a few of my favourite designers in Carolyn Massey, Lou Dalton, Omar Kashoura and Satyenkumar alongside the likes of DS Dundee, Morgan Allen Oliver and DavidDavid? A number of the designers and brands warrant an extended, individual feature and I'll get to work on this shortly but today I'm just too excited to wait and have to share a few images with you...


Given our well documented sartorial love affair with Carolyn Massey, her attendance at the trade show was the driving reason for my attendance. Expectations were mighty high but this collection did not disappoint. For SS11, Massey has continued on the successes of recent seasons (SS110 in particular) while experimenting with a rich season friendly colour palette. These are clothes you and I will want to wear. Many of the garments have an aged and lived in look which is something that I really love. This comes from Massey's interest of handing down garments from generation to generation. In addition to the delicate detailing and beautiful craftsmanship we have come to expect from the designer, this season sees Massey continue to evolve her accessories with a selection of braided accessories (including necklaces for whistles) and stunning box bags which will undoubtedly create a fantastic silhouette once worn.

The Massey mannequin. The cut and colour of these shorts is spot on for the warmer months.

A look at the rail in all its glory. I love the colour palette!

A look at Massey's inspiration wall.

The Massey family crest sits alongside the designer's invite to 10 Downing Street.

Workwear inspired outerwear sits alongside eye catching knits and braided accessories

The design is inspired by a blown up image of Herringbone.

The ideal way to keep your trousers up when the sun shines.

This oversized toolbox/doctors bag hybrid is now my dream weekend bag.

Two box bags combine to form an amazing backpack. It will undoubtedly create a fantastic silhouette once worn

Lou Dalton narrowly missed out on a catwalk schedule spot last season but Fashion East stepped in and asked her to present the collection alongside their Menswear Installations. The runways loss was our gain because the presentation format allowed far greater opportunity to study the designs up close and soon converted this fashion blogger to her design aesthetic. For SS11, Dalton has continued to practice and hone her signature of rebellious English sportswear with a strong sense of detail. Here the seams are exposed and frayed to wonderful effect.

Dalton's layered mannequin.

I loved this lightweight relaxed knit.

Detail rich tailoring.

Rebellious tailored sportswear

Just look at the finish. Exposed seams.

These turn up use an African textile lining.

Both of us were left wide eyed and open jawed as Omar Kashoura's bearded models casually and confidently paraded themselves around the bar area in their adaptable AW10 city finery back in February. Kashoura has once again drawn inspiration from his own city lifestyle to create a collection designed for every day survival in a tough urban environment. He revisits the idea of outfitting the modern gentleman and has created a collection that adapts with the demanding lifestyle of the wearer given the current economic downturn. Taking heart from the make do and can do attitudes of WWII era Britain, Kashoura has created a collection of basics that every man needs in his wardrobe. This is city sartorialism for the self sufficient man...

A wardrobe crammed with wearable yet interesting basics

The inspiration wall...Patrick Grant sits alongside a glamour on a show string message.

The key themes of the collection. City sartorialism for the self sufficient man.

Knitwear and jerseys that are achingly to be touched.

The tailored pieces are breathtaking.

Satyenkumar never fails to deliver a collection that combines timeless tailoring with modern hybrid classics. SS11 is no exception. Satyen is a designer who has always quietly gone about his business of creating quality tailored causal wear for us modern eccentric English playboys, almost going unnoticed at times. Regular readers will remember that I fell head over heels for the true celebration of colour that was his 'Reflection through a lens collection' for SS10 and is great to the talented designer continue this theme for the new season. Once again this collection is a kaleidoscopic travel through a lens. Colour blocking and soon to be revealed prints inspired by the jungle. There is very little khaki or traditional camouflage on show, instead Satyen has designed a collection to enable the wearer to stand out. Anyone hoping to bathe in the sun on a beach somewhere next summer would surely love this collection of colourful, lightweight tailoring.

Satyenkumar's colourful rail.

The colour rich inspiration wall.

A peek at the soon to be revealed print for the season.

Colour, colour everywhere.

Satyen is a master at finding the softest fabrics.

Now in its second season, Stitch is still far from becoming a disneyland-esque tradeshow but it is evolving to become the type of trade show London menswear deserves. The focus is on making it a must attend trade show which will help put the UK firmly on the map within the international menswear calender. London is without doubt a brilliant and exciting place for menswear and it is so important that designers have a space to sell from during the main men's buying season. With such an array of talent taking part this season I'm quite sure it will gain the momentum to continue to move forward.


snappy said...

I'm so with you, lovin' the toolbox/doctors bag combo! And the braided looking key chain...yea, very snappy.

Redford said...

The first jersey top is cool. I like the jersey/polo shirts style. All the pics look great. I prefer this winter collection to the SS/11 collection of Milan

J said...

Somehow you have managed to make Stitch look interesting. Gotta love Lou and Carolyn.

Style Salvage Steve said...

snappy: Very snappy! Just think of all the things that bag could carry.
J: It was! I still think the organisers could do a lot more to promote it but it is early days really and atleast they are doing something. London menswear deserves a tradeshow dammit.

Matthew Spade said...

stitch looks brilliant now, can i come with next years?!

really like the idea of the blown up herringbone, summer is rubbish for me, i look so-so in summer gear. i wish there was a middle ground of a weather type that is hot but you wouldn't get hot in winter clothes. maybe just a longer sunny autumn


Related Posts with Thumbnails