Style Salvage Speaks to... Makin Jan Ma

We first came across Makin Jan Ma designs over on Style Bubble where the Central St Martins graphics grad who saw Spike Jonze and Wong Kar Wai as his contemporaries had taken an odd route by evolving the characters of his future films and creating fashion for them. Film, photography, fashion, illustration, poetry are intertwined as Makin uses all of these mediums to express the ideas overflowing from his mind. With his SS09 Collection "You are my milky way" the Japanese London-based designer takes us on an intergalactic journey with wearable spaceship and outer space prints. We caught up with the creative chap and he offered the below insight into the workings of his mind...

Two characters from 'You are my milky way'

Style Salvage: Tell us a little history about your beginnings…
Makin Jan Ma: I wanted to make film and so I tried to start. I started writing stories and scripts 3 years ago. And then I started making props and clothes for my stories and characters as part of the process of my brainstorming. And once some Japanese buyers saw my clothes and they told me they liked it and agreed to try to sell for me. Since then I start making collections. I started from not knowing a thing about fashion collection nor any idea of making clothes. And for these 3 years I slowly feel that I am finishing my foundation course and going into a degree course of making clothes. I feel a long journey of learning just starting now again. Very exciting.

SS: Confusingly for some, your design work provides costumes for your characters, describe your work in your own words...
MJM: I write stories and scripts and I make clothes for my characters. Whenever I have a chance I push myself to make films of my stories. And creating stories and thinking about clothes becoming a very mixed up process in my head. Sometime the story come first, and sometime the clothes. I stop worrying what come first or second. I just keep working towards the film. For the moment I feel that I am actually practicing a big research project for my future film. By keep creating and collecting ideas, I feel confident to move on slightly everyday.

SS: When can we expect the finished film?
MJM: The film I am going to make which I will be very fan of myself... I think that will come maybe in 5 or 10 years time... I don't know yet. But I will keep making shorts and experiment films to enlarge my vision and experience. Film making for me is a life long process. All the directors that I respect they spend a life time to develop. And I am very glad that I have started my route. It is a serious thing for me. But when I start seeing more people wearing my clothes in their daily life I start to think the film is already starting in a different form. They are like being carried to life of reality in a different aspect. Running my film project so far gives me the freedom to observe, collect and create different ideas everyday. I enjoy the process and I am not looking at it to reach an end yet. I will keep working hard on it which is what I can promise for now.

SS: Talk us through your favourite character thus far?
MJM: I have a character named Guts. He is a sentimental guy who like to think about little things in life. There is always confusions and contractions in his mind. Love is an important thing in his life and he chase for the true feeling of time.

SS: Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
MJM: I don't have a set design process but I am collecting ideas from my surroundings every moment. I work very spontaneously. I would like to allow myself freedom in my process of creation.

SS: What films/books/tv-programs/moments and stories currently inspire your design?
MJM: Japanese Actress/Singer Chara singing MY WAY in the film called Swallowtail Butterfly, is a 1996 movie by Japanese film director Shunji Iwai.

SS: What were some of the elements that influenced the spring/summer collection?
MJM: Milky Way... The endless space of unknown which surround you when you first catch a sight of love.

SS: Do you see directors or designers as your main contemporaries?
MJM: Directors give me hopes and designers bring me drives.

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
MJM: A meditation trip, a pretty long one

SS: What's the one question you wish people asked you but you've never had the opportunity to answer?
MJM: Would you like to act too?

Desire to recreate Take Ivy

Scanned images from Take Ivy courtesy of ACL.

During the late sixties, a Japanese photographer traveled across the northeastern United States stopping at each of the Ivy League schools to document the style of the era. The resulting book, titled Take Ivy, is inspiring. This beautiful photo book is practically impossible to get hold of (it was out of print until a few years ago when a small run was re-released, only to immediately sell out) but thankfully scans exist online. I first came across the book via Thenonplace who managed to scoop a first edition of the book and then he duly put his copy of the 2006 reprint on ebay (it sold for £410 demonstrating the demand for this limited edition book). A Continuous Lean has dedicated a number of posts to this preppy style bible and it is thanks to Michael Williams that I've been able to see inside this world.

Scanned images from Take Ivy courtesy of ACL.

Although these scans are of a time and a place I will never know and are of a sartorial style that is not my preferred aesthetic, there is no denying that they are truly wonderful. shots These images have instilled a desire to embark on my own exploration of a specific style, all I have to do is decide who to focus my lens on for my photographic style documentary. I sense a summer road trip, who wants to ride shotgun?

P.S. It is my birthday on Saturday...if anyone has a spare copy of Take Ivy and would like to send me something special please do...

Giveaway! Burberry The Beat

Burberry are giving one lucky Style Salvage reader a bottle of their new scent, Burberry The Beat.

To stand a chance of winning, please tell us what the models are looking at in the below image (keep it relatively clean, folks)... The prize will be awarded to the entry which makes us laugh the hardest... come on readers we expect belly bursting laughter...

Please send your your entries to stylesalvage@gmail.com. The deadline for entries is Sunday, February 15th. We will post the best entries and of course name the winner the following day.

You can learn more about Burberry The Beat on their Facebook, Myspace, and Bebo pages.

Wardrobe Observations: 1 - Green with envy

Last week I mentioned the looming threat of EJ's visit to London where she has promised to ransack my wardrobe and scrutinise every piece...that day is drawing ever nearer. Before organising (and at times hiding items) the sorry excuse that is my wardrobe I have spent the morning scanning the contents and as well as invoking some form of fear deep within me...I have realised something...I need more green. We have frequently discussed the importance of colour in previous posts on the blog and its importance should not be underestimated. After my quick content survey it is clear that the predominant colours are grey, navy and blue...very few items deviate from this palette which is a shame. I only have two green items, one branded t shirt and one cashmere jumper...I need more. I've always known that green is certainly a colour which suits my skin and hair tones but I have been recently inspired by glimpses of green in two recent images posted by the Sartorialist and snippets of moss like shades on the the runway.

In addition to the wonderful theatre of the show, 'The McQueensberry Rules' contained a bounty of desirable stand-alone pieces. The show had a wealth of depth, every time I look at this collection I see another highlight but the above look is my current favourite and I love the earthy tones. For AW 09 Lanvin continued the blend of traditional luxe fabrics and technological twist but it was the mix of deep red and green accessories against the well cut relaxed suits which got me excited.

Away from the runway, the Sartorialist's smoking man from the Left Bank has combined the best example of a pea coat that I've seen all year with a lighter shade of green fingerless gloves. As for the other Sartorialist chap (captured outside the Lanvin show), The Sunday Best simply described him as perfectly executed and I could not agree more. This is one classy shade of green mixed perfectly with blue and purple, which ultimately creates a very dapper look....when I grow up I want to be this man.

This is the first of undoubtedly many wardrobe observations. I am a mere two days aways from EJ's visit so more posts will surely follow. When was the last time that you surveyed your wardrobe?

Vibskov's Autumn/Winter Encore with friends

I spent the afternoon catching up on a number of shows from Stockholm (Bertoni and Whyred are particularly worth mentioning) and Copenhagen and it is great to see a number of exciting designers showing in these (relatively) new fashion capitals. For me, men's fashion is always in need of new blood and and a fresh point of view (and no more than now given the doom and gloom of recent weeks) and these shows have helped me see that it is out there, Copenhagen in particular. Every February and August, Copenhagen is host to Northern Europe's largest fashion event. Susie has recently returned from covering the goings on at Copenhagen and her coverage combined with her enthused ramblings at home have forced me to write a few words on Vibskov and chums.

According to Susie's excited ramblings Henrik Vibskov is followed and celebrated like a Rock God in his native country and it is easy to see why, as well blowing his adoring fans all away with his colourful prints he creates quite the spectacle and knows what constitutes a great show. Of course we saw this collection in Paris but I loved hearing about his encore show last week. I wish more designers knew how to put on a great show.

What makes a great show?

• Find a great venue - Vibskov's venue was The Grey Hall in the semi self-governing state of Christiania with approximately 850 residents and plenty of pot consumption.
• Invite more than just the usual fashion crowd to create a different type of fashion experience.
• Allow plenty of beer. A Bring your own policy makes for an interesting party feel.
• A well chosen sound track.
  
• An interesting collection helps but if all the boxes are ticked then it is not necessarily a necessity.
  

Copenhagen was far from just a one man show though, although heavy on the monochrome Jean//phillip's collection was anything but dull. Highlights included slim silhouettes in fabrics ranging from provocative leather, PVC and sheer black chiffon to the more subdued wool in black and grey, jersey and black and white woolen tartan. Soulland, one of the few purely menswear designers showing, saw knitted long johns, quilted jackets, high-necked knits and trousers made out of high endurance rubber which created a slightly unnerving collection.

If you've not had time to look over show images from the Scandinavian fashion weeks, I suggest that you make yourself a cup of tea and pore over designers new and old (Please note: Style Salvage is not suggesting that you pour hot tea over the designers, please just drink it and marvel at the shows whilst sipping tea).

Fashion156 playing with pastels

Painting with pastels...Image from Fashion156 editorial. Flower Cap, Shirt and Jacket by Satyenkumar. Pink Bow Tie by Made with Hands painted by stylist.

After waking up to yet another grey and damp Monday morning in London, I have sought comfort yet again in a cup of tea (strong, milk with one sugar) and the latest editorial over on Fashion156. In my opinion there is nothing online half as good as the editorials showcased on this site and I was not disappointed by the Pastels issue, which once again showcases emerging design talent with established names.

I for one am fed up with all this grey and am chomping at the bit for some warm sunshine! The latest shots transport me back to the seaside and pressing my chubby cheeked face against the windows of Italian owned ice cream parlours. When most people think of pastels they are reminded of afternoons spent at nursery school creating a masterpiece to grace the outside of their fridge whilst getting more pastel chalk on themselves as opposed to the paper in front of them. For me, all of these memories have been diluted with thoughts of food, either the windows of Parisian patisseries with a mouth watering selection of macaroons or the equally salivating inducing sight of tubs of interestingly flavoured ice cream.

My favourite look...Pink Check Jacket and Trousers all by Jaiden RvA James

Pastels offer the perfect Spring colour palette but more often than not they are worn in a tired and uninteresting way. Here, Guy Hipwell has played with pastel shades and used plaids, polka dots, florals and textured accessories to breathe fresh life into this Spring palette. My favourite look of all is the one directly above which features a whole look by Jaiden rVa James. For their Spring Summer 09 collection they traded in lace and the subdued colours of previous seasons for gingham and spring pastels and have certainly captured my imagination in the process. The shirts and jackets are decked out in gingham and adorned with oversized pockets in soft pastel shades. These pieces are complimented by below the knee shorts with a hint of gingham, and solid, pleated high-waisted trousers. This is adventurous Spring Pastel dressing.

Pastel Polka Dot Gang...Spotty Cardigan by Ground Zero, t-shirt by Carola Euler, jeans by American Apparel

If you were in any doubt before, this editorial confirms that pastels offer are a wonderfully Spring friendly colour palette and can be embraced wholeheartedly with pastel blue tailoring or delicately integrated into everyday style in the form of accessories and footwear (the Kurt Geiger and Grenson collaboration springs to mind).

Pale Pink Cardigan by Martin Margiela, check shirt by Marc by Marc Jacobs, pink bow tie by Made with Hands painted by stylist.

As I said over on the featured MAN article on Fashion156...If you are half as fed up with wearing dark ensembles as I am, it is time to embrace the coming season and the patisserie-like selection of pastel shades on offer...right after devouring a macaroon or two...unfortunately, it is a little too cold right now to take on a double scoop of pistachio ice cream...

Style Salvage Speaks to... Martyn Bal

Out of the seemingly countless Spring Summer 09 lookbooks we have seen over the course of the last few months Martyn Bal's is one of the few that we remember vividly. We have to admit that Bal was not on our radar until we saw his vision for this coming Spring but we eagerly researched him and his impressive CV says it all... we can't wait to see his next collection (images for this should be up shortly). Martyn Bal has learnt his trade at some of our favourite menswear designers and we love what he is doing on his own label so we were thrilled when he agreed to speak to us.

Style Salvage: Describe your work in a few words.
Martyn Bal: We aim to challenge fashion conventions with an architectural vision of shape, fit and proportion, whilst effortlessly juxtaposing strength and fragility, forcefulness and elegance, with hedonism and romanticism.

SS: You have certainly learnt your trade at some prestigious places from being an apprentice at Dirk Bikkenbergs, completing an MA in Menswear at the RCA, assisting Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme, designing collections for Versace, and directing the men's studio for Burberry's Prorsum. Which experience would have shaped your design the most?
MB: Every single experience has been important to me. Different people and places have had different influences on my work. At Bikkembergs I learned all about tailoring and constructing a perfect jacket or coat, whereas at Dior Homme I received more exposure to creating an image. Having had a mentor like Hedi Slimane has been extremely valuable to me in terms of understanding vision, and how to apply a vision into the finest and often overlooked detail. Burberry was a good corporate school, where I learned about the more institutional sides of this industry.

SS: Having seen so much at such a young age, what advice would you give a young designer wanting to forge a career in menswear?
MB: Ambitious people often want too much at once. I believe it is essential to be patient and learn step-by-step.

SS: Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
MB: I don’t have a set design process; every season may be approached differently. Sometimes I find an image and work around this to build up a story, other times I simply start to draw and find reference along the way. I never restrict my creativity to just one theme. Often different media inspire me. Being a modernist at heart, I use graphic design, contemporary art and music culture as a springboard for inspiration.

SS: What (if any) films/books/TV-programs/moments and stories currently inspire your design?
MB: I love watching the classic Michael Caine movies, or a young Terence Stamp in Pier Paolo Pasolini’s TEOREMA. However, it’s attitude, contradiction and behaviour that inspire me most, rather then having one particular muse.

SS: Your spring/summer 09 collection provided one of the strongest look books that we've seen all season, what were the main inspirations behind it?
MB: With the SS09 collection I wanted to emphasize fit and proportion and work with soft and light materials. It is a play on dualities, confidence and romanticism; Cropped pants, long t-shirts and more volume at the top. I also worked around the idea of conscious dressing to defy authority, as in adolescent rebellion.

SS: What can we expect to see in your next collection?
MB: The AW0910 collection is about rejecting traditional forms and anticipating the future, so there is strong play on fit and proportion throughout the collection. With regards to colour and print, I have tried to arrange it in such way that from a distance it agrees completely with vitality in all its forms. We have asserted a lot of attention to detail and finishing. Our collection breaths luxury and craftsmanship, made to the industry’s highest standards. We have also been working around the idea to propose ‘The new suit.’

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
MB: The way things are looking at the moment, 2009 is going to be a challenging year for the industry. It would not surprise me if some fashion houses were to fail. We believe that in times of turmoil it is leadership and innovation that create opportunities. Our aim is to do just that for 2009 and beyond.

Hope on the High Street

Last night I dreamt that I was the proud owner of a thriving menswear boutique in an unknown district of an unknown city. The rails were stocked with a wonderful mixture of good quality wardrobe staples, well selected vintage pieces and there were areas for my favourite designers and recent graduates to showcase their talent and of course to wow the viewing public in to consumer submission. The shop itself was busy and people were relaxed, comfortable and, most importantly, leaving with a smile and a full complimentary shopping tote.

The reason for my dream, aside from my obsession to one day play shop, was the fact that I couldn't get to sleep last night, so to combat my restlessness I decided to re-listen to the Monocle Weekly. As I was drifting off the distant voices I could hear belonged to Tyler Brûlé and Lord Mandelson (British Secretary of State for Business, Enterprise & Regulatory Reform). As they discussed their views on how budding entrepreneurs should ride the waves of the recession and make a difference (with the help of a few banks who actually lend money responsibly), it triggered off my entrepreneurial spirit in making a mark on the retail landscape. One day my friends, one day...

The Monocle discussion highlighted that our High Streets have become so overrun with huge chain outlets that they have lost their community spirit. On the most part, if you have seen one high street you have seen them all. The closest High Street to where I grew up is now a very depressing sight (not that it was much better when I was a nipper) where most of the large chains have now left the town centre and retreated to out of town shopping areas leaving a mourning ghost town- only Primark and KFC survive. Sad times indeed but there is hope. Lambs Conduit Street (as profiled by Monocle last year) symbolises what can be achieved and, when I own a shop, it will certainly be part of this retail renaissance.

Furthermore, despite the obvious decline of our much lived high streets there are glimmers of hope offered, surprisingly, by a number of megabrands. The blogosphere has been inundated with collaboration news and impressive look books from the likes of Uniqlo, Topman, COS and even H&M.

From the previews that I've seen, the best of the lot is Uniqlo's guest-helmed designer invitation lines. As we have come to expect (and rely) from a collaboration with the Japanese megabrand, basics are the rule, but each designer's spirit still prevails. The Opening Ceremony (designs hitting the stores in March) feature cropped lengths and plaids in washed-out pastels and I'd gladly buy the lot...

Released twice a year in February and September, Lens was set up in 2006 as an area dedicated to a handful of changing designers in the flagship store on Oxford Circus. A few seasons on and the Lens area is renowned for pushing the boundaries when it comes to high street fashion and it really is a delight to see designs by the likes of Carolyn Massey, James Long, Mjolk, Kasper Harup-Hansen and Dexter Wong hanging on the rails of a High Street retailer...my only complaints would be that they don't stock enough small and mediums and that it would be nice to see the Lens area in more stores across the country.

Susie hearts COS for reasons detailed in her post last month but it should be added that I have hearted (??) this certain store for longer than she has. The simple, well made clothes in soft colour palettes can be worked in to any closet. The store consistently provides a clean and attractive aesthetic and for me the store really comes into its own when the sun comes out and the looks I have seen for the coming Summer are just how I envision myself dressing.

So despite the fact that many of our cloned high streets are on the decline (if you still don't know what I mean then I suggest a quick walk down Oxford Street or my home town of Margate) there is hope provided by a number of major retailers stocking menswear. The entrepreneurial spirit demonstrated by these High Street megabrands have inspired me to look at the blue print of my own retail haven- there is certainly room for all of us.

Style Salvage Speaks to... Carolyn Massey

Carolyn Massey is one of our favourite menswear designers and we expect big things from her in 2009. She has established herself as one of the key names in British menswear, producing both her own soft, relaxed luxury clothes and a number of salivation inducing pieces for her Topman Lens line - thanks to her designs, this leading fashion retailer recently brought the cape to the High Street!

We've not got long to wait until she takes her place in London Fashion Week's first ever dedicated menswear line up with her first solo show (February 25th can't come soon enough) so we were so pleased when she agreed to answer our questions despite that fact that she must be extremely busy right now. As well as looking back on an extremely successful 2008, the interview looks forward to her upcoming solo show and the designer reveals her love of Stephen Fry and his Fair Isle jumpers...

Style Salvage: After completing your MA at the RCA in 2005, what made you take the somewhat daunting leap to start your own label?
Caroyln Massey: I was frustrated and bored with what i was doing at the time, and I had developed some good personal orders - it felt like the right thing to do.

SS: We don't have too long to wait now until your first solo show at London Fashion Week (you are the first menswear designer to get this sponosorship) and we can't wait! Combined with the seasonal diffusion lines, Topman have certainly given you a platform to show off your designs, which has grown and grown. How did you first start working with Topman and how has the relationship grown?
CM: I was approached by Matthew Murphy of b Store who coordinates the area in my 1st season at Rendezvous showroom in Paris. The collections have grown and next season we are going up to 4 collections a year which is really exciting. For me it means that I can also design in other areas- accessories for example. The show is a pretty amazing the opportunity that I have been given, but I've worked hard for it.

Massey's creations for Topman Lens, including that cape and pieces from the SS09 line.

SS: The recent seasonal diffusion line with Topman was based on 'What it is to be a gentlemen' and it was so popular that we weren't quite quick enough in getting anything! Were you surprised by the success of the line?
CM: Yes and no- it feels like I've been doing my own thing for a while and now people are coming round to it. Amongst other things, I'm obsessed with the sense of ceremony that can be attached to dress and something about that feels really important right now.

SS: Your headmasterly cape left us salivating over our keyboards and was arguably the highlight. What was the inspiration behind it?
CM: My old flatmate had this amazing Dutch nurses cape! I will often look to uniform or old garments for ideas and also to look at construction... During Paris when I go over for sales I will go off to the flea markets and second hand shops. I take a huge empty suitcase and come back with it full.

SS: What is your vision of the gentlemen today?
CM: Erm... Pass!

SS: Who are your style icons?
CM: Currently Stephen Fry- love him and his Fair Isle jumpers.

SS: What is currently inspiring your design?
CM: No one I can name- there's a sense of mystery that has to surround this for me- In my head my muse is everyone and no one, a blurred grainy black and white photograph.


SS: Congratulations on being named the first ever fashion winner of the Reflect Forward Award 2009, how important is research to your design process? Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
CM: Research is integral to any design process. Just lock me away in an archive! I have a design/mood wall in the studio that changes every season. There is a process of gathering ideas and fabric and trims and sticking them to the wall and then figuring out how it all sits together.

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
CM: Why, world domination, of course...

SS: Finally, what's the one question you wish people asked you but you've never had the opportunity to answer? (and what is the answer)
CM: If I told you I'd have to kill you.

London and the resurrection of E. Tautz

I have a stinking cold today so feel pretty sorry for myself but there is reason to be cheerful. Thankfully, it is now only a matter of a few weeks until we get to experience the first (half) day of London Fashion Week wholly dedicated to menswear. The welcomed initiative from the BFC has grown out of the success of MAN and will increase the quota of men’s attire at Fashion Week. The all-male showcase will take place across the afternoon of 25 February in the grounds of the Natural History Museum and I can't wait to cover it!

“It’s exciting to be expanding the MAN project and getting wider recognition for the brilliant menswear coming out of London. Other big names joining MAN on the bill include Tim Soar, Carolyn Massey and E. Tautz .” Fashion East’s Lulu Kennedy (who we interviewed last year).

The list of designers create further reasons to be optimistic about the state of menswear in this fair city but as I am excited by all the featured designers, I am intrigued most by E. Tautz...because before last week's mention on A Continous Lean I was not aware of this distinguished sporting and military tailors.

Upon further investigation, the history of the brand is plain for all to see. For example, in 1895 Winston Churchill, aged just 21, became a customer at E. Tautz and his first order consisted of a pair of twill Tautz overalls but his as he grew older his wardrobe grew larger as E. Tautz decked him out in luuxurious pieces including white cashmere racing breeches and chocolate satin racing jackets with pink sleeves. However, it is thanks to the good people at Norton & Sons that we have the imminent relaunch of the storied house as a ready-to-wear collection.

It will be exciting to see so much emerging talent on show on the 25th but it is refreshing to see the seeming resurrection of such a historic brand which advocates skilled local manufacturing.

I will leave you with the following insight in to the etiquette of the house...

'We champion the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear. We adhere to the age old belief that how you dress reflects your respect for the event and for your host. Edward VIII said it best. 'Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion.'

Street Style Induced Salivation

In the spirit of Goldilocks Tommy described the above look to be 'just rrright' and declared his intent to invest in a low cut pair of monochrome dr. martens. I've not owned a pair of DMs for about fifteen years now but I have enjoyed the brands (relatively) recent resurgence and have appreciated their collaborative work over the last few years. On this old school favourite, today's Guardian magazine stated that 'even Raf Simons can't persuade us on this 80s come back trend. Shoes for sixth form sulking and nowt else' - the magazine is a joy to read but I frequently disagree with their style content and I shake my head at their words once again.

The above shot demonstrates that the somewhat clumpy shoes can look good, albeit helped by the cuffed jean styling and a truly beautiful, slightly distressed bag. I want, nay need, that bag. Once again a street style blog has offered me more inspiration and reason to salivate over my keyboard...I think I will have to make the 'Street Style Induced Salivation' a regular feature because it is happening to me all too often lately.

The (Forgotten) Art of Wardrobe Building

Source

Each day during this cold, mostly grey month of January, Valet have brought us a new tip, trick or tool to ensure that 2009 is the year we up your game on the looking-good and living-well front...as well as providing inspiration for the odd post or two (my favourite being our personal uniform post). On day twenty eight the chaps at Valet have reminded me of the need to both purge and organise my wardrobe. Susie is constantly picking my clothes off the back of chairs and rehanging them within the wrinkle free safe haven which she goes on to inform me is called 'the wardrobe' before muttering more words under her breath. I am guilty of preferring to have my clothes close to hand rather than hanging in a wardrobe. My method of getting dressed in the morning doesn't even require the opening of a door or drawer because I have what I need on the back of my trusty chair...Of course, I do have a wardrobe and it is full of clothes but I just prefer to have my favourite pieces out on show...much to the bemusement and annoyance of Susie...Through a combination of this nagging and the looming threat coming from EJ (who takes a great amount of glee from informing me that she is going to rummage through my wardrobe in a mere two weeks time) it is about time that I spent an afternoon folding, ironing, arranging and charity shop bagging. Upon looking through our archive it came to my attention that it was about this time last year that we dedicated a post to salvaging wardrobes...a lot has changed over the course of the last year and it is certainly time to attack that wardrobe of mine all over again.

The Valet advice is threefold:

1) Take a visual survey and pull out the pieces you haven't worn in the past year. If it doesn't fit or you don't plan on wearing in the next couple of months, toss it.
I certainly need to do this and think a small bag at the very least will be dropped off at a nearby Charity Shop next week..

2) Look at your shoes. Dump the beat up sneakers you don't even wear to the gym, and take worn-out wing tips to be resoled. Now might be a good time to replace affordable standbys. I have at least pair of shoes which needs to be resoled, new year, new sole.

3) If there are seasonal items you'd like to keep, but are done wearing, take them to the cleaner and have them boxed for storage.
Is anyone this organised? This might be a step too far for me...

Methinks it is time to grow up and after purging my wardrobe, I will continue the pursuit of building the perfect wardrobe. I have been inspired by reading the E. Tautz website (after being pointed in it's direction by A Continuous Lean). This of course will not entail me taking hold of a hammer and a bag of nails but instead will require the thoughtful and measured collection of sartorial pieces...given the current world situation, I think it is the perfect time to advocate astute shopping. It is time to treat the wardrobe as more than a mere piece of furniture which I barely use. I will leave you with inspiring words from E. Tautz and I will purge the wardrobe...mañana.

The art of wardrobe building is not fast or haphazard; instead it is developed and nurtured over time. A mans wardrobe may rather eloquently tell the story of his life less ordinary.

Style Salvage Speaks to... Charlie Porter

Charlie Porter is a man that we both greatly admire here at Style Salvage. As our obsession with men's style has evolved over the years Charlie Porter's insight has been our constant companion; his scribblings for GQ, the Guardian and, more recently, i-D and Fantastic Man have always been a pleasure to read. He is one of the few fashion journalists that discusses men's style with a heady mix of intelligence, knowledge, understanding and humour. We wish there were more commentators on men's style and fashion in his mould.

We could gush all day and night about him (especially Steve) but we (more like Steve) would only end up embarrassing ourselves (himself). That said, we have no problem admitting that we squealed like school girls when we realised that he was following us via Twitter... in fact we have Twitter to thank for securing us the opportunity to interview him. A quick google search doesn't bring up any other interviews with him, so this could be some kind of first and exclusive for us. Hurrah! We are excited so we hope you enjoy...

Style Salvage: How did you get into the men's fashion business? What excites you about men's fashion?
Charlie Porter: I began concentrating on menswear because I was offered a job. I had been deputy fashion editor at The Guardian, but newspapers are mainly focused on womenswear. Nick Sullivan was leaving British GQ for US Esquire, had met me at the men’s shows the season before, and so recommended me to Dylan Jones. And so I switched over. I quit GQ in June last year for Fantastic Man, which is an utter joy for me. I’ve never worked on an independent title before, and presumed I never would because they are mostly for the young. But I now work on a magazine made for men, and done with an independent spirit and drive, and it’s an honour to be a part of it.

SS: What do you really think about the aw 09 shows so far? What were your favourite moments and did you have any moments that you'd like to erase from your memory?
CP: There was so much fashion around, which I found so exciting – often menswear is just pieces or small steps, but so many shows had big bold moves. Yves Saint Laurent was a total standout for me, and was what I’ve been hoping Stefano Pilati would do for ages: clothing that was uncompromised and advanced in its thinking, made with the same spirit in which he does his womens shows. Raf Simons was amazing – I kind of embarrassed myself afterwards by going up to him and, rather than asking an intelligent question, I just said “I love a bolero”. I love the way that Comme des Garcons is almost being cheeky now with its obsession with skirts – Rei Kawakubo is getting some oomph with the challenge she’s making with them. And the studded coat at Prada was totally superb.Favourite moments tend to be the ones you don’t expect: we had a lovely few minutes reading our horoscopes on Sunday; there was one particularly enjoyable sing-a-long to Listen by Beyonce when I got a lift in the Love car; I was trying to make my friend laugh when she was right in the line of the catwalk photographers – it’s that sort of stuff that keeps you going.

SS: How do these shows compare to previous seasons? In your experience has there ever been such a resounding influence on the collections as the r...the rec...(oh you know what we mean - we just can't bare saying it anymore) has had on this season so far?
CP: I was getting quotes for a piece from David Walker Smith, the head of menswear buying at Selfridges, and he was saying how a few years ago we’d have been complaining about the shows being so boring, where as this time round they’ve been really exciting. So I think fashion design follows an opposite path to economic boom and bust –i actually think it’s boring when there’s too much money sloshing around. I think you should say the R word loud and proud – I think it’s the most exciting thing to happen in fashion for ages. It’s simple: the dull world of luxury has blunted the excitement of fashion this past decade because it’s more about logo and profit growth rather than fashion for the sake of it. Luxury has suddenly lost its confidence and is shying into the background, meaning that actual fashion designers – people who make clothes with a purpose rather than just to revive a brand – now have the floor clear. I think it’s something we’ve seen in menswear at these shows just gone and will hopefully happen in womenswear too. Obviously complaining about the recession is the most boring thing in the world, but look at its actual effects and it’s actually a cause for optimism (as long as I don’t lose my flat/job/life etc).

SS: Which shows are you most excited about seeing in London?
CP: Really really really hopeful that the new menswear day will work. It’s AMAZING that the men's shows have been given more of a shot, but it’s a shame that the day comes after the official shows are over – some womenswear editors will have left for Milan already. I personally think it’s an outrage that newspaper editors completely ignore men’s shows. They should do both. Fashion is fashion.

SS: You must have seen so much over the course of your career, what is your favourite fashion moment?

CP: The spring/summer 2002 shows were particularly tough, because they happened in September 2001. We were in New York on September 11th, so after London I skipped Milan to get over it all. I joined the shows back in Paris, where one of the first I saw there was Junya Watanabe, who’s one of my favourites anyway. The show started, and it was beautiful – that denim collection with skirts made of patchwork panels that curved as they went down. And the music was “If You Leave Me Now” by Chicago, and and as it got to the bit where it goes “ooh-oooh-oooooh-oooh-oooh baby please don’t go”, all the catwalk photographers started singing, and it was just lovely. I went to do a re-see of the collection a few days later, and they’d redubbed the video – don’t think singing photographers would help sell clothes.

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
CP: I’d have loved to have seen relatively recent stuff, like Comme des Garcons first collections, early Vivienne Westwood, and also Bodymap stuff that I’d have read about when I was a kid but not seen. Even only going back a few seasons from when I started to see Alexander McQueen’s first couple of shows would be enough for me.

SS: Have you got any recommendation that you'd like to share with our readers? (shops, hairdressers, designers, websites, bars)
CP: Shops: Fabulous Fanny’s on E9th Street in NYC between 1st and 2nd – the most extraordinary spectacles shop in the world – it’s where I got my specs from, remakes of an old pair.
Hairdresser: The Turkish barbers on Broadway Market, London E8
Designers: Old Town! The most amazing versions of British workwear clothing that you can only get by mail-order or by visiting their store in Norfolk
Bars: well I’m totally in love with the Joiners Arms on the Hackney Road, where I co-host a weekly party on Thursdays called MACHO CITY, we also do a weekly mailout called the WEEK IN MACHO on Wednesday, which you can get by mailing machocity@googlemail.com

SS: Aside from the ones you contribute to, what are you your favourite magazines?
CP: World of Interiors, The Garden (which you get when you are a member of the Royal Horticultural Society), American Vogue, Vanity Fair, The New Yorker

SS: We have been writing about men's style on the blog for eighteen months or so now and in that time we have seen a number of other men's style blogs come and go...do you read blogs and if so, which are on your blogroll?
CP: I think the exciting thing about the way blogs are expanding is that they can become more and more personal and involved. I think so many made the mistake of thinking they can just replicate a magazine online, or that it would be interesting just to reprint whats in press releases. The thing that The Sartorialist does so well is completely link to fashion without ever referring to the fashion industry itself. It’s very clever, and it’s the sort of natural link to something that makes sense which every blog has got to find for themselves.

SS: What is inspiring your own personal style at the moment? Do you have any style icons (long or short term)?

CP: I’ve just gone freelance, so I’m interested in how my clothing is changed from being at home and not going into the city so much – there’s been a definite weeding out of looks, and everything I’m wearing is definitely much more “me” – it’s a really good process. I’ve never had a style icon in my life, I just like wearing clothes that amuse me or that are enjoyable to wear.

SS: Is there anything that you'd never wear?
CP: Anything too revealing – I’m a total prude – very English.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish men wore more?
CP: I just wish men thought more about what it is they’re actually wearing than conforming to what they think they should wear. So many men are scared of rules that don’t exist, or think they should have a certain look or convey a preconceived message. I just think of clothing in terms of what it feels like to wear, both in terms of the fabric and cut, and then what it looks like to wear, and then go on from there. I think it’s a much more satisfying way of dressing than being linear about it.

SS: What piece of style advice would you pass on to your (theoretical) sons?

CP: I couldn’t imagine anything worse than telling (theoretical) offspring how to dress! It would cause immediate hatred in (theoretical) offspring!

SS: And finally, our quick google search didn't uncover any other interviews with you online... this is your chance to ask yourself and answer the one question you wish you had been asked but have never had the opportunity to do so.
CP: Yes I do think it’s a crying shame that Hedi Slimane, Helmut Lang and Jil Sander aren’t designing right now.

Excited by...Beige???

The goings on in Milan and Paris have had a strange effect on me. As designer after designer has presented collections dominated by black, I have looked for something more and just might be getting exctited by things that oridnairly would be far from exciting. The world is seemingly in an advanced stage of collective mourning in response to the terrible situation (we are frequently told we are in) and it seems we are supposed to dress the part in the coming seasons. Such a sorrowful colour palette has forced me to cling to any colour that I can and I have found myself being somewhat excited by glimpses of the neutral colour palette which we have been treated to from time to time. Who knew that it would be possible to be excited by beige?

Despite seeing black almost everywhere, the runways of Paris did offer some light tones. I was not 100% convinced that the Lanvin collection preached 'change' but I was convinced by the soft touches on show and was a fan of the cinched at the waist trench coats with contrasting lapels. McQueen's dark and aggressive Victorian vision shown by his 'McQueensbury Rules' collection contained some beautiful coats and some neutral tone styling which made the whole thing less menacing...However, the highlights were really off the runway and were captured by Mr Schuman in Sweden and by Tommy in Paris. The final look above (in particular) really caught my imagination. I'm not completely sold on short sleeve jackets but it works here because it shows off the lovely knitted texture of the jumper.

These recent demonstrations of how a neutral colour palette can be quite striking got me thinking about the coming season and the many examples I have seen since the last round of shows. The Cablog is a constant source of inspiration and he certainly knows how to use colour and textures to make some truly wonderful outfits. Upon the purchase of a delicate umbrella he used neutral neutral tones to create a soft and delicate look, all he needs is a promenade to stroll down. Martyn Bal's SS 09 lookbook was one of my favourites because it contained a number of light as-a-feather layered looks...perfect Spring dressing in my opinion. Likewise, Burberry's 'Crumpled Classics' collection beautifully demonstrated how men should layer throughout the seasons. Jumpers over printed shirts, with scarves and light macs in a number of soft, light and thin fabrics were so inspiring.

As the world is increasingly dark and sombre, it it that much of a surprise that I can be excited by beige? Am I an isolated case or are other people experiencing this strange phenomena?

Picture Postcard: I want my own entourage

Source

Dearest Eliza

When can I have my own entourage like Mr West? I came across this image on the simply wonderful every day is fashion week blog that is Jak & Jill. I doubt that my entourage would look quite like this but nevertheless I want one. As my birthday is coming up, maybe you could rustle me up a dandy butch of gents to follow me around and do my bidding however I see fit...

Speaking of Kanye, after my headache (induced by catching up on all of the shows that I missed) subsided I ventured on to Kanye's blog and was confronted with this strange video of the newly titled Martin Louis The King Jnr talking from his hotel room in Paris....strange viewing indeed.

I wait for the assembly of my entourage...

Thanks

Steve

Hey Steve!

And here was me thinking that you were scared of clowns... Ok, so that's a little mean. I have been bemoaning the lack of colour on the catwalks so this is definitely a breath of fresh air... but ever so slightly overwhelming when all viewed together.

Taken individually, I generally like what each of them is wearing (with the exception of the chap in the green jacket... does... not... compute...) and it is fantastic to see men having such fun with their clothing and not being afraid to wear bright primary colours. I'm seriously considering yellow trainers now, not that I need an excuse to buy more trainers.

Not sure why they're carrying round their luggage though. I would've thought that they'd have valets to do that sort of thing for them...

EJ

P.S. I'll begin assembling your entourage when I'm down in London in a couple of weeks. Applications to the usual email address please...

In need of pain relief

The New Tylenol? Looks from the Lanvin AW09 show.

Always read the label. Do not operate heavy machinery.

From bad planning on my part and an eagerness on the behalf of my Grandparents I ended up packing a small case full of jumpers and took the train for a weekend break on the South East coast. All of this meant that I was sans Internet for two days (aside from my phone) and I duly missed much of the activity in Paris...although, did I really miss that much (answers on a postcard, or alternatively the comment box)? I have to admit that I've not caught up on all of the shows as yet because quite honestly the sheer number of looks (mostly mediocre) on offer have given me a headache and I needed a break from it all.

The collection which I took the greatest time over (as it relieved the symptoms of my headache) was unsurprisingly Lanvin. After salivating over the catwalking images, I progressed to the WWD show report and chuckled over the following Elbaz remark:

“In difficult times the public needs something uplifting. You can either take a Tylenol or wear a Lanvin suit.”

Unfortunately, Lanvin suits aren't quite as easy to get hold off as a paracetamol but nevertheless I agree with the sentiment...so many of the shows in Milan and Paris have focused on the negativity of the current economic situation or at best, played it safe, whereas we all want and deserve more! For me fashion should offer some form of an escape and as most of us are forced to reach for the Tylenol (or in my case the English equivalent, paracetamol) and financial markets crumble around us, we can at least aspire/dream and attempt to emulate the look on the runway - and I certainly feel that way about some of the looks created within this show. I just wish more designers shared this mentality, we certainly do need uplifting...and until that happens I guess the message is to hit the painkillers...


Despite my headache I did manage to gaze over the Sartorialist's shots over on men.style and I have to take the trophy out of the hands of Zegna and provisionally award best dressed crowd to Anne Demeulemeester but there is still all to play for...

Style Salvage Speaks to... BUCK (part two)

Here's part two of our interview with the chaps at BUCK magazine. For part one click here.

SS: How do you see BUCK developing over the next couple of years?
SD: There are so many things that we want to do with it but and we don't want to bore you with this but there is so little cash around. It is difficult to know how it will pan out to be honest.

SS: I guess it must be difficult with BUCK when it comes to getting the right advertisers on board... you don't want just any old brand

SD: In a way I'd rather have ads for food and interiors, so we can be a bit more picky what we put into the fashion pages. As the magazine is settling in to its own stride now, we will turn our attentions more to the website, get a lot more video content up. You can just translate a lot of our features into video. For example 'In my room' could be turned into a three minute programme and depending on the production value it could be popular. Once you know what you want, and it has taken us several months, but now everyone here understands the brand, who our reader is and we always keep that person in mind, someone like yourself, are we targeting this to Style Salvage Steve? It can be easier to make decisions that way when you are going along, some magazines forget who they are actually targeting.

SS: I think with some magazines they have certainly lost sight of who their reader actually is, they have become diluted and as such don't really appeal to anyone and they can have a confused voice.
SD: Not everyone likes the design of the magazine. We had a really great response from people our age but people in their fifties find it a little arty. Which is strange...
EJS: It's because it isn't like GQ or Esquire...
SD: We just want to translate this online through video. We will start during fashion week. We are going to do video reports, backstage, street style outside of the shows and we have interviews with a couple of designers. it is going to be really complicated because we are so busy. Fashion is hard work.

SS: Oh fashion is hard work. People don't realise that it is actually quite demanding!
EJS: The hardest part is waiting around with no food...
SD: A few canapes and champagne. We are going to drink Prosecco for four days...

SS: BUCK is packed full of knowledgeable recommendations, from restaurants and shop addresses to the best red wine and how to tie a bow tie. Could you recommend something you've recently come across to our readers today? What is your favourite tip at the moment?
SD: Well, Elliot can do style... There is a new restaurant/bar called Derriere (in Paris) and it is the coolest place in the world.

SS: That is what is getting you excited right now?
SD: It is. We are going again when we go next week. It is absolutely incredible. It is at the back of a bar called Andy Waloo and it is set up by the same guy who set up Sketch in London and Momo. It is basically a house behind Andy Waloo, hence the name and it is completely secret...they don't advertise, there are no pictures, they basically don't tell anyone and it is one big house party inside with a restaurant kitchen. You go in and you have a lounge, dining room, a snug and a bedroom, dressing room and bathroom upstairs and you can eat anywhere. We ordered in the bedroom and it was fine to eat there as well, the guy was like...*puts on believable Parisian accent*...'You can order it here and we bring it to you, it is fine'. It is just really Parisian. The interior decor is just so eclectic, Philippe Starke ghost chairs next to a 60s black and white table, then beaten up leather sofas next to a real Louis XIV chair...all just so mismatched and really, really good.

SS: And your fashion tip Elliott?
EJS: What we have been thinking alot about recently and this links into the new design...is that what we'll see in the coming years is people actually ordering from the designers themselves, rather than going to x,y or z department store. It is great to contact the designers directly about pieces.

BUCK front covers, Steve at his desk and Elliott posing on the desk...

SS: I bought a cardigan from the Carola Euler 'Still' Collection and it was so nice speaking to the designer.
EJS: I ordered a few pieces as well and I bought a backpack from Sophie Hume. Car boot sales are still a big tip as well. Finding new ideas to update your wardrobe in the credit crunch.

SD: We always try to promote vintage. I went to Brick Lane on Sunday and half the shops had sales on, and I've never seen that before... I think the price of vintage is going to come down because it has been quite inflated over the years.

EJS: Vintage is a key element to BUCK, it highlights how we approach fashion. We see guys mix their grandad's shoes with Comme trousers and a tshirt their mum made them or something. There is always a place for high end and classic pieces. As we enter the recession, it makes sense to buy quality but much less.

SS: Last couple of questions now, what is the one question that you would like to be asked but never had the chance to answer?
SD: To answer the question in a round about way... Most people, when they meet me and they think of what I do, they get it completely wrong. They think I spend all day looking at clothes rails or the Habitat catalogue or something.

SS: That sounds like a dream job!
EJS: That is actually Laura's job.

SD: In fact, my day is spent responding to irritating emails and dealing with people (outside of this office) not doing their jobs properly. It is certainly not all high glamour but I absolutely love it!

SS: Ok, last question: when are you going to run a feature on men's style blogs?
*Noticed the hint that we'd like a feature*
SD: We could do, I mean we could get you in some other way, an at home with 'Steve and Susie'

SS: But then you would just see Susie's shoes everywhere!
EJS: I've seen, they are amazing!
SD: It is a funny thing though because when GQ does a similar feature, it focuses on the old guard telling you what is going on young people's culture. For us to do it, it would be somewhat odd because everyone know, if you know BUCK, you would probably know about the blogs already.
EJS: We all read everything and we want to offer something quite different. if we did do anything on blogs we would like to do it from a different point of view.
SD: We don't want to tell people what they should have on their blog reader.
EJS: The life cycle of some blogs can be very short. It is amazing how blogs like yours have been around for so long, grow it whilst keeping it up.