Sunday, 25 January 2009

In need of pain relief

The New Tylenol? Looks from the Lanvin AW09 show.
Always read the label. Do not operate heavy machinery.

From bad planning on my part and an eagerness on the behalf of my Grandparents I ended up packing a small case full of jumpers and took the train for a weekend break on the South East coast. All of this meant that I was sans Internet for two days (aside from my phone) and I duly missed much of the activity in Paris...although, did I really miss that much (answers on a postcard, or alternatively the comment box)? I have to admit that I've not caught up on all of the shows as yet because quite honestly the sheer number of looks (mostly mediocre) on offer have given me a headache and I needed a break from it all.

The collection which I took the greatest time over (as it relieved the symptoms of my headache) was unsurprisingly Lanvin. After salivating over the catwalking images, I progressed to the WWD show report and chuckled over the following Elbaz remark:

“In difficult times the public needs something uplifting. You can either take a Tylenol or wear a Lanvin suit.”

Unfortunately, Lanvin suits aren't quite as easy to get hold off as a paracetamol but nevertheless I agree with the many of the shows in Milan and Paris have focused on the negativity of the current economic situation or at best, played it safe, whereas we all want and deserve more! For me fashion should offer some form of an escape and as most of us are forced to reach for the Tylenol (or in my case the English equivalent, paracetamol) and financial markets crumble around us, we can at least aspire/dream and attempt to emulate the look on the runway - and I certainly feel that way about some of the looks created within this show. I just wish more designers shared this mentality, we certainly do need uplifting...and until that happens I guess the message is to hit the painkillers...

Despite my headache I did manage to gaze over the Sartorialist's shots over on and I have to take the trophy out of the hands of Zegna and provisionally award best dressed crowd to Anne Demeulemeester but there is still all to play for...


Giancinephile said...

This was so the case as well at Hermes. Everything seemed toned down and certainly at this time, less frills.

It's just sad although on a brighter note Gareth Pugh's menswear debut is a beacon of hope. A pure visual spectacle!!!

John said...

Can you get a Lanvin suit on the NHS? I could do with cheering up...

Last night I saw the shots from the Gareth Pugh collection and felt as if God had struck me down with lightning.

Reason being: I am 3rd year menswear student preparing for my final show. One of the key pieces/concepts I have been working on are trousers/jackets that are IDENTICAL to Gareth's. The ones with lots of small triangles on that look like folded up bits of paper.

I am wondering if:
a) Gareth can transform himself into a pigeon and it has been him sitting on my window ledge spying on me
b) Gareth has been using undercover operatives with London College of Fashion to steal ideas
c) There is some extremely bizarre subconscious thing going on here as one of the previous ideas I considered (to get a similar aesthetic) was quilting trousers..?

The dilemma is this: I wont get marked down because my tutor/marker know I haven't copied him. However the aim of every student is to get in to the press show. If I do that, no one will know that I also happened to have the idea at the same time, and will just think I am a lazy copycat.


See, I really need a Lanvin suit!

Style Salvage Steve said...

Giancinephile: All in all, both fashion weeks have been a bit hit and miss...more misses in my opinion. I want to be wowed dammit!

John: I would certainly vote for any party if they promised Lanvin on the NHS! In terms of the Gareth show...oh no! Don't panic though, everything will be fine and I'm sure your designs kick ass. I hate to say it but Gareth has been experimenting with these shapes for a while now in his womenswear shows so I guess it was a natural progression to introduce them within his first menswear collection but damn him for doing it now! Have you got any images that you could send across for me to look at?

Matthew Spade said...

ahhh no how much bad luck is that and your grad fashion show! i do hope you get great marks for it though and it still manages to get into the press and maybe people will see more differences than you actually do?

some of the sat's shots lately are so inspirational, and some amazing outfits/variety too. i've been saving all the images and my new macbook, get me!

can't wait for my london trip steve, i've planned the route to dover street market already.

TheSundayBest said...

So many people dressing for the time on Sprockets when we dance. Look - in grim times like these do we really need to dress like morticians?

John said...

Thanks for the kind words folks :) Better than a free Lanvin suit? Almost ;)

No photos to hand Steve, I have toiles/samples where I had laser cut the pieces and attached them on to a backing, just like Gareth's trousers. In a way I was expecting similar style stuff from him but just not exactly the same as mine. I think I will just have to keep them as a sample, I have other stuff I can use it's just a shame to see them go to waste! I will just have to make sure my stuff looks even better than his :s

If you are interested in seeing the work in progress I could email you some pics/stuff or you could come have a nosy?

Having flicked through Catwalking I have to say the collections are a little depressing. More colour please!

EJ said...

DEFINITELY more colour needed... tell me you'll be providing us with that, John?

Oh, and I'd like to come and have a nosy if Steve does...

Think positive: of course your stuff is better than his!

John said...

EJ you are more than welcome to have a nosy if you want.

I am ashamed to say most of it is grey actually!! :S It's quite sculptural so it might look a bit too whacky in colour...

It's funny because it's not actually the sort of stuff that I would make if someone were to say: here is £50K make your own brand. We have a new tutor this year who is really good and into conceptual stuff (no tailoring) - kind of the opposite of what you are seeing on the runways at the moment. It's nice for us in a way because we don't have profit margins to fulfill or a business to worry about. So we can be free to do what we want. Also it is probably the last time we will get to do 100% what we want.

On the other hand, if it is all realy whacky then what will potential employers think? Who knows... sigh

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