Below are the parting gifts that I received from my work buddies after I decided to move to pastures new! As you can see they know me well and rather than getting the usual choice of vouchers actually putting a great deal of thought and effort in to it...it was almost enough to make me go all emotional!
1 - Polka dot skinny Paul Smith tie - check out the awesome lining!
2 - Raf Simons Redux - I've wanted this (coffee table -which reminds me that I really need to get a coffee table) book for some time now but the price tag has always made me view it as an extragence (as it's a present I don't have to worry about that!).
3 - Daks Plimsoles complete with personalisation, remarks such as 'we may miss shoe' and 'steve's got sole' will always make me smile.
All in all I was spoilt and I left with a smile on my face but maybe a little sad at the same time which I certainly wasn't expecting!
Oh man, I love the 'shoe' puns... will you wear them though, or just keep them on display? The tie looks great, Stevie, you're clearly beating me in the PDG stakes!
I had fully intended to do a proper post this evening but when I remembered that one of my favourite films was on tv (and a certain someone still has my dvd of it), I'm afraid that the film took precident.
One good thing that came out of it (apart from me thoroughly enjoying myself... and shedding a few tears, I'm not ashamed!) was that I was reminded of the wonders of Niven's 'tache. So I thought I'd share it with you.
Niven's facial hair is truly special, hard to pull off but when successful it is my favourite lip accessory! What do you make of Orlando Bloom's effort? I'm unsure about it, I do appreciate his effort though! It would look better though if he addressed his wardrobe...I'm intrigued to hear about any of our readers success/horror stories with their own facial hair, or at the very least men in the media. We should go on a search for the top tache...
TheCorner.com just opened its virtual doors in the US and the EU with theSpring/Summer ‘08 Men’s Collections by 20 selected designers with another 20 brands set to join for Fall/Winter ’08. Just another outlet for me to either spend all of my money or pretend to (which is actually quite fun, browser shopping I call it). I particularly like the bags of Jas MB (I've felt the leather and it is so damn soft that you just want to stroke it day) and of course the shoes of Swear. My love/obsession with Swear shoes was reignited on Monday as I had to physically restrain myself from buying far too many pairs of shoes at the store on Carnaby Street....
I'm a bit enamoured with Flickr, though I must admit I am having a torrid affair with Ffffound. If Flickr is my loving, reliable spouse then Fffound is that new partner- exciting, wild and a bit unexpected. I digress.
For a little while now I have been storing up my Flickr faves, my inspiration board, to share with you, to show the mood I've been in the past month or so. It's fairly typical- lots of black and white, classic shots, broken up here and there with flashes of colour. Moustaches, a quiff and Adidas feature, as do a few of my favourite bloggers.
There's a bit more dressing up than I usually go for, but I think I'm just looking for a break from the tedium of work uniform (I don't have an actualy uniform, but I'm not a naturally smart dresser so it's a bit of a hassle for me- more on this in a later post).
So what's been inspiring you this year so far?
Oh EJ, it is scary how similar our minds are. Most of your inspirations stir my loins also, furthermore you have also turned my attention on to some new bloggers! I like the idea of a virtual inspiration board and will get to work on mine. I will try not to replicate yours too much and throw in some fresh inspirations....
Well it has been a while since I sent you a picture postcard, apologies for that. I am going to make up for it though with sharing a confession with you, I quite like how Mark Ronson dresses. Yes, it is a little faux Beatles (after recently catching him on that god awful Lily Allen show) and I am not a fan of his a producer/musician (in my opinion adding a brass section every single time does not a remix make), I even dislike his weird voice but I do like that he is bringing a little old school style to the Awards Bashes (Best British Male...really, whatever happened to Robbie Williams...). Am I crazy?
Yes. Yes you are. I have no idea what he dresses like as I can't get past his annoying, continually bored looking face. Sorry, I know I've said that we should try to be positive on the blog, but I can't stand that man.
As Friday night was a boozy farewell with my workmates I had to do something different the following night, so off I went to the busy, media centre that is the BFI Southbank to watch one of the most stylish films that I have ever seen, Bertolluci's 'Il Conformista'. It was a visual masterpiece, blurring the lines between photography and art with a masterful display of light, shadow and of course wardrobe! This is the film that made Bernardo Bertolucci's international reputation, The Conformist (based on Alberto Moravia's novel) is equal parts film noir, Freudian melodrama, and political commentary. Unfortunately the volume of quality film stills from the film are few and far between so I will have to use the efforts on youtube to back up these ramblings of an adoring fan.
The opening scenes of the film just made me sit up and listen, the hangover was now long forgotten. We see Trintignant take out his recently acquired accessory (a gun) to complete his new look.
A sensual political period drama, The Conformist (aka Il Conformista) stars the quite brilliant Jean-Louis Trintignant as Marcelo Clerici, a weak-willed Italian who has embraced Mussolini and his Brown Shirts. Encouraged to embrace conformity by his new bride, Giulia (Sandrelli), Clerici finds that his French honeymoon is to double as an attempt on the life of his former teacher (Tarascio), now a political dissident living in exile. Packed off to Paris with a pistol and some great suits, it slowly emerges that Marcelo has a twisted personal history in which sex and violence go hand in hand.
One of my christmas presents was a pair of leather gloves, all I need is a similar hat and I will try and replicate the above look. Obviously the backdrop of Paris and pretty lady as accessory can helps create the stylish scene.
This is a style blog though and in my childish excitement I can stray from the point of this post 'What is the point of this post' I hear you ask, well, the film is a cinemagraphic demonstration of how a man should dress...how I want to dress! One of the most visually striking aspects of the film for me was the perfected shirt length. It is always well talked about when discussing men's style and everyone has their own opinon (I like the Sartorialist's take on the matter), mine is that Jean-Louis Trintignant demonstrates how it should be done. Jean-Louis Trintignant is an actor as at home in spaghetti westerns (The Big Silence) as in human dramas (Three Colours: Red). However, he was never more beautiful nor more brilliant than as Clerici.
As it is Mothers Day today you should use the above example of what to wear whilst walking back home with the gift of flowers. Just look at the amouint of cuff on show, the perfect cut of the suit and the commendable choice in headwear. Why on earth don't people dress like this anymore?
I urge you to go and see this film which is almost Wellsian in its baroque flamboyance, all luxurious lighting and colours, sweeping camera movements and ornate design. The emotionally expressive lighting of cinematographer Vittorio Storaro has attracted much comment and acclaim. Storaro – who would go on to win Academy Awards for Apocalypse Now, Reds and The Last Emperor – describes thus his approach to the scenes set in Fascist Rome: 'I wanted to show through light the idea of claustrophobia, of being caged. I used the idea that light could never reach the shadows, so that there was a distinct separation between the shadows and the light.' . The below clip is one of my favourite parts of the film and beautifully demonstrates why you should see this film.
We have often talked about the relationship between style and music, our very first post (back when this blog wasn't even read by our friends) discussed the Clash's style. And now, oddly, we've managed to score an interview with Jack Bevan, drummer for up and coming band Foals (if you are a Skins fan then you should know all about them!) and recent model for Burberry (which was shot by Mario Testino and cast of course by Style Salvage favourite Christopher Bailey).
Foals are self proclaimed 'snotty art school dropouts who are hungry for the dollar' and if you believe the hype, they are set to be huge this year (they have already sold out their London gig a month before the album launch!), tipped by the likes of the BBC, MTV and the Independent and are being compared to Radiohead by the Telegraph. If you aren't aware of the band take a listen for yourself and let us know what you think! If either of us were music journalists we might say "the Foals play the sort of jittery, rhythmically-focused post-punk that's been a steady thread of through indie rock in this century" but we aren't so let's just say that we approve and get down to Jack's take on style!
There is arguably no more accurate a barometer for what is perceived as 'hot' than the Burberry ad campaign. Jack was one of the Burberry babes...alongside Coco Sumner (who I hear you cry?Well she's the daughter of Sting) Merlin Ferry (son of Bryan), actors Alex Pettyfer and Eddie Redmayne, golfer Liam Wade and fellow musician Will Cameron. From this you would think then that Jack would therefore be extremely stylish or at least be drumming in a stolen Burberry trench! It is always fun to analyse style and to make assumptions but let's hear it from the drummer's mouth...
SS: How would you describe your own personal style and how does this fit with the rest of the band's? Jack Bevan: We all wear hand me downs from each other. Yannis lost all his clothes at a show in Nottingham so we've been sharing a lot more recently. I just buy whatever I think looks funny most of the time - t-shirts especially. I also kind of have a thing for cardigans that are too big for me and I’m a bit of a hoarder when it comes to plaid shirts -especially red ones.
SS: How did you get involved in the Burberry campaign? On the campaign Bailey is quoted as saying "Movement, energy and character are the defining spirit of this new campaign. I wanted to work with an eclectic and talented group of the best British musicians, actors, models and sports people who are new additions to the Burberry family."Following this commendation from one of the best designers today would you say that you were the most stylish member of the band?
Jack Bevan: No. that's a weird question. None of us think like that. Most days we all wake up hungover in the same hotel and have to coax our bodies back into our van. Thinking about how we look is nestled firmly behind: getting a coffee, doing the puzzles in the G2, cutting Edwin’s hair etc.
SS: Most importantly did you swipe anything good from the shoot and what was it like being shot by Mario Testino? Jack Bevan: No, but I did pester Burberry for a coat. Being shot by Testino was great. I used to study him at university so it was a little surreal. He was really fun. He has some pretty awesome dance moves.
SS: Who are your top three musical style icons? (in terms of clothes as opposed to songs) Jack Bevan: ...
Check out the cat stencil on the T shirt on the left! Awesome stuff!
SS: We've frequently discussed on the blog how music influences fashion,but what influence do you think fashion has on music? Jack Bevan: The same amount of influence smells have on painting
SS: There has been a great deal of media attention surrounding the band, has this affected your wardrobe decisions at all? Jack Bevan: No, not really. We’re hardly getting papped or anything. I don't think any of us feel that much different to how we felt last year, except obviously there is a lot more to be excited about.
SS: Now that you're rich and famous (or about to be) where will you be shopping? Jack Bevan: If I ever find myself in the possession of money, I’ll scurry over to New York and move into the Clinton street bakery. From there I’ll order things online whilst eating sweet potato fries and grilled chorizo.
SS: Have you got a favourite item of clothing and what is on your shopping list? Jack Bevan: Haha, yes! I have this old t-shirt, which is like off-white with a cat's face made out of cheap plastic jewels. It makes me laugh everytime I see it. On my shopping list...I wanted one of those hand made hoodies by panda bear but they sold out.
SS: Finally, we've seen most of the band sporting facial hair of varying types (the moustache Yannis had in the Balloons video stands out) but you have stayed clean shaven: what's your opinion of facial hair? Do you dream of growing a handlebar moustache one day? Jack Bevan: I wouldn't be able to grow facial hair if I tried. In fact I have tried. I’m trying right now. no, seriously I have no ability to grow anything that's worth keeping.
Writing this post has been a breath of fresh life into our discussion of the relationship between music and style, spawning a number of follow up posts in coming weeks and ideally more interviews! If you like the band and want to buy their debut album (Antidotes)... well, it's not out until March 23 but you can preorder it through their website. We will leave you with the video for their new single, 'Cassius', released this week which Steve likes because it contains offal pendulums!
Watching the "Cigarettes, Alcohol and Rollerblading" episode of Father Ted the other night set me off on an odd train of thought. Dougal (below left, as if you need telling- surely everyone's seen the best sitcom ever?) was wearing a rather fetching knitted tanktop. He's a stylish chap, narry a hair out of place, but normally he wears bright red tank top. Now where had I seen something like this before...?
And then I remembered! The Sartorialist of course, home of all tv sitcom-inspired outfits. It was this chap here to be specific:
(For a moment I thought it was this chap from the facehunter that I had been thinking of but then I realised that he was just Mark E. Smith's clone. Obviously.)
Oh I do like the recent collaboration between Raf Simons and Eastpak but am put off to the crazy high price (£279 - for a backpack? Seriously...they are cool but come on!). I really want to try it on and wander around London for a day, I know I will be transported to those hazy Summer days back in the early 90's. Picture me, slightly podgy - it was puppy fat and of course I looked damn cute - walking to school wearing my white polo shirt, grey short shorts and grey socks, Ninja Turtle lunchbox in hand and carrying a backpack which went down to my ankles. This collaboration could make those memories real again! If you want to be transported back to your childhood and have a wallet full of cash they are available at Oki Ni.
I am currently without a laptop of my own (I really need take mine in to be fixed!) so rather than spend my evenings exploring the wonderful internet world I have taken up that old habit of reading novels (do you remember doing that?). I have just started reading the famous and quite controversial Bridehead Revisited and I like the story's narrator have fallen in love with the old English aristocracy... As I do I am sure to post various style pics from the likes of the Sartorialist which remind me of the novel.
I have just found out that they are making a film version starring Ben Whishas as Sebastian Flyte
I heard rumours that Polaroid would stop producing instant film for some time but now it seems it is true! I currently have three Polaroid cameras sitting on my mantlepiece at home, all loaded with film and ready to go. I adore the medium, I feel that it takes the most beautiful images without too much graft. I was fortunate enough to purchase quite a few packets of film whilst I was in New York (where it seemed readily avaliable and of course much cheaper), ordinarliy though I visit Unsaleable. I could and indeed have spent so much money on this site because the cameras are so beautiful and the film so varied and wonderful! I did however notice a subsidary site, soup and fish. soup & fish is a start-up internet platform and online shop for contemporary Austrian and international fashion. They show interesting developments and trends in avantgarde fashion design. Their work has two goals: To make well chosen pieces out of past collections of international designers available to and affordable for a new audience; and to introduce young Austrian fashion designers to the international public - showing their individual unique pieces and small or limited collections. In my opinion the shop has more to offer in womenswear at the moment but I will keep on coming back to see how the menswear developes.
Sand-coloured hunting waistcoat by Martin Margiella
Grey/beige plaid/herringbone wool coat by Victor&Rolf
Here is my quiet suggestion for this weekend; an affectation I feel I should encourage.
Go to that enormous bunch of flowers you no doubt bought your girlfriend for Valentine's Day. Clip off one rose (I'm sure she won't miss one from a bunch that big). Pin to the lapel of your jacket or coat. And voila! Easy accessorising! It looked brilliant at the Lanvin show and is surely something that must be tried? I think it is especially fetching during the winter months when everyone is swathed in similar looking big black coats (and when it's cool enough that the flower won't wilt and die within half an hour!).
Bisous old man,
EJ x
You should know me better than that EJ! I don't buy flowers for anyone other than my Nan. The gf doesn't even have a vase of any description, so first I would have to go vase shopping and well, this doesn't sound much fun at all (I haven't reached that age yet, I may be old in your eyes but things like vases seem a silly extravagence). However, I adore the idea of accessorising with a little help from mother nature. The unexpected sunshine combined with the cold air of February is perfect for sporting a little flower. I'm not a fan of roses as flowers but as pinholes they are pretty perfect. The deep red rose pictured here at the Lanvin show sits perfectly against the dark navy shades. I personally have only worn only one flower in my lapel and this was at my Final Fling (end of Uni ball), I picked a beautiful pale coloured rose which looked amazing for approximately one hour but the June heat soon wiltered my freshly picked companion. So, I will take head of your advice and experiment with some subtle flower adornment in the coming months. I'm sure there must be a good way to increase the lifespan of flowers...maybe I will try freezing them. I'm tired and still a little hungover from my birthday exploits. Off to bed with me.
I admit that I was slow off the mark but thanks to expressive frontier and all IC my shopping senses were alerted. Anyway, If you've not heard....Dover Street Market debuts (for the first time outside Japan) Rei Kawakubo's Comme Des Garcon's 'Homme Deux ' line this month. Homme Deux is designed by Kawakubo herself with an emphasis on hand finishing and quality fabrics. I am so tempted to vist DSM at the weekend (even though I am pretty much without a single penny to my name) and pretend that I could actually afford them and try on these quality suits. I'm just about to start a new job and even though the dress code is relaxed (the vague code being 'wear what is appropriate' which is obviously much better than the annoying smart casual - which we all know means in the vast majority of offices that 'you don't have to wear a tie but otherwise dress smart') I would love to power dress and walk in with an immeasurable amount of confidence wearing one of these suits!
The early birds might have tipped me off (with that I applaud them) but they failed to show the window display which is pretty cool, using Gilbert and George and complimenting Kawakubo's suits. The matching business suits which Gilbert and Geroge wore for their early performances became a sort of uniform for them, and they rarely appear in public unless wearing them. I didn't actually go to see the massive exhibition at the Tate Modern last year but I seem to recall EJ going and giving it a very positive review. I will have to make do with the window display.
For 40 years Gilbert and George have maintained their seamless double-act, walking in step and talking in antiphon, all clothes, habits and opinions synchronised, all sentences prefixed by a regal "we". For many this could be a little a tiresome but I think I would follow suit (excuse the pun) with one of Kawakubo's hand crafted creations if only my bank manager (do people actually have bank managers anymore?) was a little more giving!
How long ago does it seem since we first met? Both of us so much blonder back then, and both slightly more obsessed with David Beckham. As the years have passed your clothes may have changed, remaining (more or less) stylish at all times, yet from the day we met we’ve been best friends. I wouldn’t change it for anything.
I wish you all of the happiness in the world today, and here’s to as many more birthdays as you could wish for.
Happy Birthday!
Lots of love,
EJ
Oh EJ you are so emotional. Happy valentines day to you (even though you don't believe in it)Thanks for choosing these pictures (there are far worse photos out there). I have had a very nice, quiet birthday in preparation for all of the weekend hijinks. I can't believe how long I've known you for. It's not my age that makes me feel old (24 is a fine age!) but the fact I've known you so well for so long. May we best friends for another 5 years atleast and let there be plenty of style changes along the way!
Over the last few weeks my consumerist attentions have gone off a number of different directions but the one constant longing has been that of a day bag. I have a number of different bags in my possession but the bulk of them fall in the weekend bag category and are deemed too large for everyday use. I am on the lookout for the perfect, universal everyday bag. Something that allows me enough storage space for my Poloaroid camera, a magazine (I have to carry a magazine at all times), a good book (I really have to get back into the habit of reading literature), my notebook, pen and possibly essential toiletries. I have fallen in love with the below bag from Topman Design but I fear it might fall into weekend bag territory.
I might need some help on this one...If I had the money I would invest it wisely in a bag by Jas M.B. like this one but unfortunately New York has robbed me. A little shopping trip lies in store for me this weekend, I have to put an end to this quest and hopefully a store like Hurwendeki can help.
My love for Daft Punk has been documented at great length on this blog and although the purists out there didn't like Kanye West reworking the song, I loved it and can't get enough of Kanye right now. Seriously, he was featured in this months Vogue where he gave his pick of the shows and he had some insightful and interesting points. Anyway, enjoy the performance!
Oh my god, I just fangirled so much I almost passed out. The.. the.. the EVERYTHING! I'm off to Cyberdog now to get me some of these. But first I might just have to watch that again...
EDIT: Pants, all the versions of this have been taken down on YouTube... anyone know where we can find a copy? I'm desperate to watch this again!
I've been more than a little neglectful of this here blog the past week or so, and while I could blame this on starting my new job, my visit to London or my side projects (ahem) including helping out at Independent Fashion Bloggers, really it's just been a mild case of the blues. I got blase and suit blind. Lovely as the offerings from the various fashion weeks have been, I got a bit... bored. I know, I know, there was a huge range of stuff out there, but some weeks it's just hard for me to find. I busied myself reading my latest blog crush, finishing my long neglected Christmas book and avoiding the last of the unpacking.
Thankfully, I wasn't sick of music... and Outkast were there to restore my interest in men's clothes. While So Fresh, So Clean has been a bit of anthem for me when it comes to getting dressed, it's the video the Whole World that reminds me that there's more to stylish men than suits...
... there's multi-coloured capes, top hats and skeleton make up as well! Every single time I watch this video I just want to dig through my wardrobe and play dress up in the classiest ways possible. Plus, who can possibly be sad when dancing to Outkast?
Just as I was leaving New York I had a few moments to kill as the gf was packing up (frantically cramming things into her suitcase and, when that was full, mine) and I read an article in the New York Times. The point of the article was that over the last few years the body shape of the male model has changed, the preferred frame aesthetic is now much leaner than before and whilst everyone worries about thin female models, the skinny man goes unnoticed.
The article refers to Slimanization - the dominance of the scrawny kid at castings.
It is certainly true that the sleekness of Dior Homme suits made other designs appear boxy and old. I actually took a class at Uni for my Law and Sociology degree titled Masculinities which explored, amongst other things, the Male Body and back then in 2003 a musucular and athletic form was preferred. It was interesting reading the view point of American who are used to seeing muscular male models championed by the likes of athletic menswear brands such as Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. John Bartlett is interviewed and says "The eye has changed. Clothes are now tighter and tighter. Guys are younger and younger. Everyone is influenced by what Europe shows." It is true that designers like Raf Simons, Prada and Slimane champion the scrawny and younger guy so this leaves the big, powerful models of old even unable to squeeze themselves in sample sizes. Demian Tkack an Argentine model has the last words within the article "I understand the designers are not looking for a male image anymore. They're looking for some kind of androgyne."
The image used in the article, models Sascha Kooeinga (left) and Artem Emelianov (right).
Should we be ranting and raving about the state of male models in the way in which has recently taken place for Womenswear or is this the scrawny kid getting their own back on all those guys who used to kick sand in their face on the beach? Personally I feel that trends go round and around, this has just been the time where the thin guy takes the limelight as androgyne prevails. As tastes and fashions evolve,masculinity should not be measured by the size of a man's bicep but by a myriad of complimentary and contradictory facets. If people believe that the scrawny ideal is an unhealthy ideal as they champion the more butch body, then they forget how unhealthy the road can be to reach this ideals. A fact that has stayed with me ever since those uni lectures is that if the Wolverine (a member of the X Men) action figure was lifesize his biceps would measure 48 inches. Is a waist of twenty eight inches more or less unhealthy than a body (Wolverine's) of such celebrated (allbeit caricature like) of masculinity? In conclusion, as long as the man is 'healthy' there is no need for debate. Let the clothes speak for themselves.
I think this is a very complex issue that I find difficult to discuss briefly here. I will, however, say that while I agree that as long as the man is healthy, then it shouldn't be a big deal, when people are shown only one body type (whether pumped up or super-skinny) it can lead to feelings of inadequacy that can have very negative and strong impacts on men's lives. Whether this is fashion's responsibility or not is very much up for debate.
I had a day of sightseeing today but was fortunate enough to visit the new Oak store which has only just opened its doors. I can't (or maybe more truthfully the gf can't) go a day without a little window shopping and sandwiched between visits to Ground Zero (where we took advantage of Century 21 - I bought a bargain of a Martin Margiela white t shirt), the Statue of Liberty and China Town was the trip to NoLita. Only five years after opening their flagship Williamsburg boutique (which I visited early on in the trip) Oak co-owners Louis Terline and Jeff Madalena have made the famed East River crossing with great success. The store looks great and is home to some great pieces. The store introduced to new brands to me, Handmade in USA and A-Z (I've looked for links but as yet have been unable to find any) I went away empty handied but this was achieved only through a demonstration of terrific restraint from me. If you are ever in New York you have to visit both of the Oak stores (as they seem to have slightly different stock offerings)
Oak, 28 Bond Street, (between Bowery and Lafayette streets); no phone yet. For more information, go to oaknyc.com.
I must say that I have been surprised by the dominance of one brand since I've been in New York. I had epected to see alot of locals wearing the likes of Nike,Abercrombie & Fitch, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren and of course American Apparel, but these have been insignificant compared to North Face. Be it on the Subway or walking the streets I am confronted by men, women and children sporting jackets and bags from this brand! I am a little scared...
