Friday, 4 March 2011

Matthew Miller AW11


Nothing represents the diversity of menswear design talent quite like the NEWGEN MEN and Fashion East Menswear installations. For the past few seasons this exciting cocktail of new and emerging talent has consistently been one of the real highlights of Menswear Day. This season was no different as the installations conquered the Garden Show Rooms at Somerset House. I excitedly bounced from room to room discovering the latest designs from the likes of Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen, Baartmans & Siegel, Sebastian Tarek and William Richard Green to name but a few. Just when I thought I could take no more and that it just could not get any better, I encountered Matthew Miller's presentation. 

Ever since, he first came to our attention with his standout RCA MA graduate collection which explored notions of masculinity with a somewhat jovial approach to the macabre, we have kept a close on Miller's continued development and rise to prominence. Whilst evolving his signature style in recent seasons he has enjoyed a few highlights, including being labelled by Vogue as one to watch, winning the MacArthur Glen Spirit of Fashion Award and being picked up by Selfridges. For AW11, with the modern man as its focal point, Miller's collection draws its influences from two seemingly opposing ideals, humanism versus naturalism and is influenced by Joseph Beuys, travel in the twenty-first century and a perfect number.

Matthew Miller is a designer who explores the modern world and its impact on masculinity. The working man's role in society has shifted and evolved over the years and here, Miller attempts to reinstate these lost values to suit the time in which we live today. Here, the design talent introduces his revival of masculinity. The collection itself focuses on mixing tradition and practicality at all times. The clothes and accessories are designed to fit the needs and functional demands of the contemporary man. One of the standout pieces are the Duffel coats in melange wool which have had their toggles replaced with M33, industrial strength, Karabiners. The perfect expect of tradition updated. Elsewhere, the accessories were a real talking point. Melange wool was teamed with leather and Marlow rope to create a complete set of adaptable luggage which are designed to attach to or fit inside one another. The prominent Marlow rope inspired digital print t shirts and long johns. At all times there is a marriage of tradition and either practicality or technology...   





Presentation images by me.

Now, the collection itself might be grounded in a neutral palette of greys and oatmeals but there are of course flashes of colour provided by acid yellow and cobalt blue. Last night, Miller sent through his dazzingly bright look book and I'm pleased to be able to share them with you...

Look Book Credits:
Photographer Ian Paul Higginson
Art Direction Rob Meyers
Model Elliott Dillon at M and P models
Shoes by TF Slack

Matthew Miller's presentation was one of the real highlights of a Menswear Day that was packed to the brim with talent. Despite huge competition for show slots, I would not be at all be surprised to see Matthew Miller graduate to an on schedule showcase. 


David Watts said...

The Klein Blue and Acid Yellow Duffle coats are too cool!! I find his design aesthetic really interesting also.

Isabelle said...

Love this, I'm a bit of a hiking/carabiner tip at the moment. Want to get the belt and wear over a chunky knit.

Anonymous said...

Love the flashes of colour here.

Giancinephile said...

Certainly an interesting play on texture and silhouettes. I would consider doing some colour because of Miller (being the dresser so afraid of colour person that I am these days).

Michael said...

The aesthetic here is fascinating. Not entirely sure about the presentation, but absolutely love the ideas here and that blue.

Brandon said...

A few standout thoughts:

- Obviously the colour choices and combinations are impeccable and there is little I can say to add what other commentary hasn't.

- That last little yellow bag/wallet/clutch looks really yummy. Do you know what it's intended purpose was?

- I do love such a fresh take on nautical themes - The hardware, rope belts and rope print (which to me is most exciting and inspiring!)

- The mixed knit sweater in the lookbook is rather interesting in its texture play.

- The blue draped vest is also... well the only description I can think of is calling it lush (I mean that not in the street way of course).

- Who did he collaborate with on the footwear?

- Lastly shorts and leggings area always a win!

chuck n. said...

from what i can see, matthew miller has a really unique aesthetic where he gracefully juxtaposes traditional boxy tailoring with more relaxed and occasionally fluid cuts. this collection truly is a standout!

you have an amazing blog.


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