Monday, 31 May 2010

Industrie and the beauty of details in menswear

You would never know that print media was suffering in our household. There are magazines everywhere. Both of us spend far too much time and money in newsagents. Granted there are occasions where a purchase will be enthusiastically flicked through only to be put down then filed away and forgotten. This scenario will not play out with Industrie. Since picking up the first issue last Friday I've been reluctant to put it down. This recently released large format magazine has been billed as the first and only media title dedicated to presenting an independent, in depth look at the fashion industry. It aims to shift focus away from current collections and trends, opting instead to provide a well considered insight into the culture of fashion.

A very helpful flick through was provided on Vimeo.

After reaching a state of ennui with a number of publications in recent months this magazine was an absolute joy and felt so refreshing. Over one hundred and sixty pages the title ventures behind the scenes and chronicles the personalities, stories and defining moments in the world of fashion today. The content varies between hearing the company Aitor Throup picks for his ideal dinner party to the three books that make a difference to b store's Matthew Murphy to meaty interviews with Katie Grand and Panos Yiapanis on their views on the industry. One of the real gems for me was Jens Grede's conversation with Tommy Ton. The Internet has given any passionate user access to catwalks and the fashion elite have increasingly struck a quick pose in the spotlight. Tommy Ton's Jak & Jil provides a beautiful sneak peek in to this world. The whole conversation is a great read but the following quote was the most interesting and surprising for me...

"I'm actually more intrigued by menswear than I am by womenswear...There's something inspiring about this idea of a uniform that is evident in the way that men dress themselves: a suit, a pair of pants, a shirt. Menswear is not as disposable as womenswear, it's more investment dressing...The challenging aspect about documenting menswear is the detail. I find that men are more drawn to detail, whether it's the collar, the cuff or the trimmings. I'm learning how to capture it. I find men's detail shots more inspiring on a style level than the pictures I take of women, which are more about a complete look."
Tommy Ton in conversation with Jens Grede for Industrie

It makes me ridiculously happy to hear Tommy talk about menswear so enthusiastically. I have to confess that there have been moments during recent fashion weeks where I've been more inspired by the street style displayed outside of the shows than the looks unveiled inside. Tommy's images play a significant role. The snapshots of style he captures for his own site Jak & Jil and those for GQ are at times breathtaking. We have long declared that the real beauty of menswear is in the details and will never tire of taking the time to celebrate the finer details of men's style. However, it is nice to take a breather from doing so and allow Tommy Ton's words and a selection of images to take over...

"The volume of this structured coat immediately caught my eye, especially the spiraled effect on the sleeve." Tommy shooting LFW for GQ.

"It's refreshing to see a gentleman who still takes the time to really be well-dressed. From the colors to the contrast of the patterns, you'd think you'd have to go to Europe to see men's style like this." Tommy shooting NYFW for GQ

"Let's take a closer peek at his accessories, starting with the navy monogrammed satchel. Seriously, I don't think you have to be a student to carry this off? Or do you?" Tommy shooting LFW for GQ

"I just adored how Dazed & Confused Menswar Fashion Editor, Robbie Spencer, wore his Lanvin beaded Trope L'Oeil t shirt. Rather than wearing the look directly from the runway, he layers it with an effortless ease. Bravo." Shot for Jak & Jil.

In addition to serving up inspiring fashion week style shots, Jak & Jil frequently takes a deeper look at an individuals style with his My Favourite Things feature. The highlight from a menswear perspective is undoubtedly Vogue Hommes' Francesco Comminelli. If I could inherit one man's style it would be his. I'll never bore myself poring over these shots...

Long may Tommy Ton capture the beauty of the detail in menswear. It is after all, the small details, so often overlooked and neglected by too many, that can transform any mediocre outfit in to something special.

4 comments: said...

Love Industrie, love Tommy!

Adam said...

Industrie looks great. Must find me a copy.

Matthew Spade said...

excellent shots, lots of inspiration here

Mike said...

I think whilst it is a new title and providing 'refreshing content', I can't help but feel it is a pastiche of other magazines created already. If it is trying to create an independent voice from other publications, why does it need to feel to place Anna Wintour on the very front cover? If it wanted to be idiosyncratic, why not put someone we are not familiar with? Fashion loves itself too much and photographing yet again more bare models for the lens isn't going to part my money. Sometimes I think there isn't enough self-restraint with this creative fashion industry with now this magazine, another title created by Erik who made Man About Town is just splurging his skills. The title has such an awkward use of typography and another unexplained reason to use serif typography.


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