London Collections: Men Roundtable

In a week that welcomed the announcement that London Collections: Men would build on the success of its debut and return for a second season in January (despite the slight overlap of dates which saw Pitti release a statement airing their grievances), I thought it about time I transcribed the fruits of my roundtable on the final night of the inaugural event back in June. Held in the luxurious surroundings of St Martins Lane Hotel, I saw down with a few of my favourite designers and industry friends to reflect on the London Collections: Men 's glorious debut. Joined by Lou Dalton, William Richard Green, Matthew Miller, Amber Siegel, Daniel Jenkins, Nick Bain and Dan Hasby-Oliver, we chatted for over an hour on a range of subjects but always with a keen and measured focus on the platform itself.
Over the course of three full days of shows, presentations, previews, installations and exhibitions, LC:M showcased the breadth of design talent that uniquely exists in the capital. It was a treat of design diversity and showed just how far London menswear has come. Over the lifespan of this blog I've seen its influence evolve from a reimagined Townhouse thanks to Fashion East to Menswear Day and now on to this three day showcase. Having toiled both in and out of the spotlight over the last seven years or so, London menswear finally has the platform that it deserves and we cannot wait to see it continue to grow. Before we sit back down at the table and read back the discussion, I'd like to remind you of just a few pictorial highlights from the long weekend to help whet your appetite...

From top to bottom... William Richard Green, Craig Green, Astrid Anderson, Agi&Sam, Shaun Samson, Christopher Shannon and Aitor Throup.

SS: Now that we can sit back, relax with a beer and reflect on London Collections: Men, how has been for you guys?

William Richard Green: It's been awesome.

Style Salvage: Now that is succinct. Let's all go home now! In what sense has it been awesome for you?

WRG: In terms of the Fashion East Installations, where I sent most of my time it was great. From having the time to put real thought in to the installations to having a full day to get everything set up, it was great to have that level of creative opportunity around the clothes, it helped elevate them.

Amber Siegel: Exactly, this platform helps us show the collection in a way that makes all of our jobs much easier. It can be a much more visual introduction rather than excitedly talking up a plain rail.

WRG: Today, I had all of the international buyers visit and they could see the clothes presented in the way I wanted them to be presented and it was just a great environment to help introduce them to the collection, come Paris it would have received some press already and then we can talk business. For me, London Collections: Men was all about showing and then Paris will be where the majority of orders will be made. It's a far better way of doing things, previously we were showing collections on rails in Paris and gearing up to a big show in London months later. This makes much more sense.

SS: Rather than London being an afterthought, it is now an introduction. As great as Menswear Day has been in raising all of your profiles, from a buying perspective at least, it has always come far too late in the season.

Lou Dalton: Much, much too late. Most folk who were coming to Menswear Day in September and late February knew that we had missed the slot in terms of them putting their money down, certain buyers might have some budget left but the majority of business had already been done. It made trying to court a new buyer extremely difficult, the Showrooms helped but it was still a little late. London Collections: Men is a great incentive for real business to be done.

AS: When you speak to buyers this early in the season, it's important that they feel as though they've seen a lot of offerings pre-showroom situations. It's important to show early on and to give the buyers a comprehensive overview so that we can bubble away in their thoughts as they carry on with the season.

SS: I was particularly surprised by the calibre of international press that made the trip over. I normally find myself in a queue of a few for backstage interviews but this season I was joined by the likes of Tim Blanks and Suzy Menkes, seeing those guys take an interest, must be great...

WRG: You're right, the calibre of people here was really strong. It wasn't just a case of a few hanging over from the womenswear schedule, they were here for us. Even at Fashion East, we had such great people come to see us and to take the time to talk to us.

LD: The BFC did a great job in getting everyone here and the GQ team played their part in that as well. From great international press to buyers. A few of us had been to New York earlier this year and met some of them and it was great to see them visit us over here. Most of these people are now en route to Milan. We are part of the season. It's a great starting point and hopefully we can maintain that. I did feel a bit of pressure this season from a realisation that this could go one way or the other, both in terms of what their expectations were of us as designers and making sure we could deliver, not just as individuals but for everyone on the schedule. Thankfully everything came together.

LD: The BFC are happy, attendance has been good and the designers have stepped up to the mark.

AS: I think all of the surrounding elements, in addition to the collections, really helped make everything cohesive as a true landscape of London menswear. There was no segregation, everything overlapped.

SS: Given that you were showing in June as opposed to September, did you find it difficult turning this season around?

WRG: With menswear and how most labels work or at least mine, you do continue designs that you've already worked on from season to season so that helps. It is a process of re-contextualisation as opposed to starting from scratch each season. From this perspective it wasn't too much of a struggle this season.

SS: Having London Collections: Men so early on ensures that everyone is ready - it's a real focus to work to.

LD: Most of us are in it for the long haul and want to make it into a business. London is amazingly creative but we do get a little stick internationally for churning out these designers and very few make it through.

SS: There's been little infrastructure to support them beyond a show.

LD: Exactly. You can go to an institute and take a graduate, put them on a plinth and sponsor a show but there needs to be some insight given in terms of production and the business side of things.

WRG: It's a steep learning curve for designers.

LD: But this will help, this is an amazing incentive. If we can keep on getting the same traffic.

DJ: In a sense, the first one might be easier because this is an exciting city to be in at the minute with the Olympics and Jubilee. The real test will come in the next season or two. That said, this season was great so hopefully we can continue it. From a buyers perspective, trade shows and showrooms tend to look the same and London menswear designers found it difficult sitting alongside them because they are so different but this platform enables designers to show on their own terms. It feels new and makes you question your buy and I'm sure it will provoke a few more risks. There is certainly a feeling among some of the international press that London menswear designers struggle to deliver and collections used to change from what we saw in Paris to what we ended up seeing in London as part of Menswear Day. London Collections: Men forces designers to be ready.

Dan Hasby-Oliver: In terms of next season and the potential (but now confirmed) timing of London Collections: Men do you think you could struggle?

LD: It's an interesting one because we could be casting as early as the 2nd January but we just don't know. We would be delivering this collection in store in December and January as well, so it will be tight.

AS: More and more stores are asking for stock to delivered earlier and earlier.

LD: The large stores dictate it and the independents follow suit. I drop Autumn/Winter in July and Spring/Summer December and January. It does help with sell through.

SS: In a sense it goes to show just how far the industry has evolved, we are talking about production and the logistics of business rather than just putting on a show. There is potential for a real industry.

LD: The media have helped to lead that, especially on menswear. It is hard to crack and get your feet under the table and a lot of the menswear press are pushing for longevity.

SS: I'd like to talk a bit about the evolution of London menswear. Blogging over the last five years, I've covered it from a Fashion East afternoon showcase to London Collections: Men. Lou, as the elder statesmen of London menswear, what are your thoughts?

LD: I was talking to Tim Blanks last night and he was saying, "Look at how far you've come Lou." From that townhouse by the Natural History Museum on to Somerset House where myself, Matthew and Martine all had a room and beyond. You've got to think about your own aesthetic and driving your own business forward, it has evolved but it has taken a lot of work from all of us. I've had to up my game in terms of production and delivery because the focus is on growing the stockist list. It's alright having one or two retailers but we have to build a strong stockist list to have a global profile and for us to sit alongside the big boys of Burberry and Paul Smith. I've always said, if I can do this and be self financed, it's a bloody good achievement. I've just kept my head down and worked at it. It's great to see others doing the same. From Lulu (Kennedy) and Gordon (Richardson) seeing the promise all those years ago, the BFC have taken it on is great and we should be grateful for that. A few of us have been around for a while and it's great to see things continue to move forward.

SS: That's a good point. As great as London Collections: Men is as a platform, it is important to remember all of the effort, work and support.

DJ: Over the course of Daniel Jenkins as a business, we've seen so many designers come and fall away. From initial meetings, I think we've been quite successful in spotting the talent that can produce - it's hard work in building it up.

(Matthew Miller walks in, grabs himself a well deserved beer and readies himself to join the discussion)

SS: As the evolution of London menswear plays such an important role in your collection Matthew and you researched the designers that have played their part in its various incarnations, what are your thoughts?

Matthew Miller: It has been driven by designers and their ideas since 2005, before even. I found out so much and was surprised along the way. I encountered names that I didn't really know and names I recognised but have since moved on to other things, Benjamin Kirchhoff from Meadham Kirchoff started out in menswear and Lotta Skeletrix, who was bought by DSM were both awarded MAN. The list of designers that have played their part is a long one, some of whom have fallen away and moved on to other things. With London Collections: Men, I wanted to help people remember them. One of my suits has all designer's names lasercut in to it, from MAN to NewGen to Fashion Forward. It's celebratory in a sense but it's also darker than that.

AS: It's hard work and not everyone can make it. Thankfully, there's a lot more support now and all of the designers have played their part.

LD: Some people think fashion is easy but it is anything but. The hours have to be put in and it can be blood, sweat and tears.

MM: Out of everyone who has shown since 2005, who do people miss the most?

SS and DJ: Carolyn Massey is one.

SS: Her last collection for SS11 was one her strongest and I hoped she would kick on so it was a shame to see her take time out but she is doing well now at Lyle & Scott.

LD: Siv Stoldal is another.

(Further agreement around the table)

MM: Deryck Walker is another, he's now teaching in Scotland.

SS: I miss Kim Jones but he's doing alright for himself, isn't he? Ha!

JD: The good news is that Siv is coming back.

MM: The thing we have to remember is that no one has yet gone through the system of London menswear and made a successful business.

JD: True.

SS: I'm sure looking around this table that it will be one of you.

WRG: The difficulty is that with wholesaling clothes just twice a year there's very little profit in it, people have to do stuff in between.

LD: Absolutely. I think all of us can say that. We can't base our businesses around being able to do a show or presentation on a given that cash will be supplied by the BFC. I'm totally grateful for all of the amazing support but in the future if I'm purely dependent on that support then I would have failed. For practically all of us, everything we make goes straight back in to the label.

WRG: And it's such hard work.

SS: What people don't realise is that most of you work on other things to support your labels, be that teaching or consultancy work.

(Now lets take a few questions from Twitter...)

NB: Lou, were you nervous being the first designer to show?

LD: Yes! It was interesting because I tried really hard to not think about it because it frightened the life out of me. When I was at the palace on Thursday night, which I really didn't want to go and I even tried to get out of it but had to go, people kept mentioning it and I got quite emotional. It wasn't just about what I put out, it was about setting the tone for the platform. I was slightly overwhelmed but it was an amazing compliment.

MM: It's interesting that you talk about it being a fearful thing, it brings about this idea that we are driven by our fear of failure rather than merely striving for our own success.

LD: For me, the best form of revenge is success and that's something I do think about. It was tough and it was hard but this weekend wasn't just made up of one or two designers, it was about a collective of kids proving a point and to be taken seriously.

MM: I think everyone smashed it.

NB: Matthew, urban design often influences your work. Is there any secret space in London that inspires you  most?

(Before Matthew even has the chance to answer)

LD: At home and your bedroom probably, ha!

SS: Judging by your Twitter feed, I'd say it has to be the brothel that's opposite your studio.

MM: I am fascinated by that brothel. I haven't got a TV, I just watch people going in and out, judging them at all times. Business is booming at the moment. There isn't a recession over there. Actually, it's Hackney Wick in general. In my square there's a mechanics, a call centre, a place that makes coleslaw, a brothel, a church.

SS: You don't have to leave with that offering, what more could you possibly need?

SS: This one is also from Twitter and is for you Lou... how does being a Shropshire girl influence your work?

LD: I spent most of my life trying to get away (not from my folks who were hugely supportive) because I left school at sixteen and work with a tailor for three years. It is heavily noted that I come from quite good working class stock, where if you wanted something you had to work at it. I enjoy going back to Shropshire now because London is so fast and what we do is just so quick, to be able to take a breather is a rare thing and it's nice to take the time out to see my folks and briefly live at a different pace. It keeps you on the straight and narrow.

DJ: You've always made English sportswear that is grounded in the countryside.

LD: That's true and this season, although it was quite clean and simple, it was personal. In a way it was about this obsession with fashion and how it take over your life and sacrifices have to be made. It'll be interesting to have this discussion in five years time and see who is still around the table.

SS: Right, last question and this comes from the lovely Colin of Sharpened Lead... what influence do you think fashion blogs might have and how does this compare to mainstream press?

LD: I don't really see the difference now. The interesting thing is that certain international press are told from the powers that be who to cover and who not to, often London menswear is overlooked. There was a lot of concern around certain larger brands being part of the schedule and taking the focus away from the emerging designers but my take was that, as long as we put on a bloody good show we will get a mention. Blogs have really helped elevate us far more. it is so fast.

MM: Blogs have given the mainstream press a kick up the arse. Old school journalist don't exclusively own the right to write about things anymore. They have to be relevant now.

DJ: Away from the regurgitated press releases, there are interesting menswear blogs out there that actually comment and put things across in a far better way than any magazine could.

SS: There's a freedom to blogging which can be exploited, be that post length or volume of images.

DJ: When you've posted about things before Steve, we've seen sales and for me that's influence.

LD: I think magazines have had to up their game because you guys are so quick, knowledgeable and vast.

MM: I went to Nike recently and they produced an internal pamphlet that documented everything that I had done and what I was doing, based on online features. It was crazy.

SS: The thirst for all things 'new' is being both satisfied and intensified by online media, both blogs and mainstream sites.

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Huge thanks to Lou Dalton, William Richard Green, Matthew Miller, Amber Siegel, Daniel Jenkins, Nick Bain (who helped organise everything at St Martins Lane Hotel) and Dan Hasby-Oliver for all taking the time to speak so honestly about London Collections: Men and the evolution of London menswear. Despite the obvious design talent that resides in the capital, it's not been an easy process hauling the industry to this position and there's still a lot of work to do but it will be done. Here's to the future of London menswear.

In discussion with Christopher O'Brien

Over the last few months we've enjoyed watching Christopher O'Brien emerge from the esteemed Central Saint Martins MA Menswear Design course and make his crinkled mark on London Fashion Week. Having recently enjoyed a coffee filled Sunday morning with the design talent at his home/studio in East London, we couldn't resist continuing the discussion by sharing a few nuggets with you...

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What is the best piece of style advice you have ever received, given or heard?

Just be yourself, if your not comfortable in what you are wearing then there's no point.

Tell us about your most stylish moment or memory.

I think what I think is stylish changes all the time, I thought the clothes that I wore to my interview when I was nineteen for St Martins were really stylish, now I look back and cringe. Having a meeting with Giorgio Armani when I interned there was pretty stylish, the team had been designing this collection for three to four months and then he came in and changed it all in about two minutes. I found that pretty stylish.

Tell us about the most stylish man you've ever known

I think its really hard to define "style". You may just be a rich guy that can afford a wardrobe of Jil and Dries but I don't necessarily think that makes you stylish. I think it is more about doing what you can on your budget and carrying yourself well.

Each season the same few (designers) are talked about. Who do you think deserves a little more love, old and/or new and why?

Jens Laugesen probably the best designer I ever have come into contact with. Hopefully he will do something again soon.

If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?

Alexander McQueen's SS/1999 show, the one where the dress got painted by the robots, that is what made me want to do fashion. I would have loved to be at that moment.

Is there a neglected item of clothing or accessory that you'd like to see more men wear?

Caps with fans, they've got to make a comeback soon.

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In discussion with Satyenkumar Patel

Over the coming few weeks we'll take a long admiring look Satyenkumar's AW12 collection, Portrait, but today, we just want to share a few stolen snippets of thought from the seasoned design talent. Here, we help continue the dialogue around men's fashion and style on a Thursday evening by stoking the embers of discussion with a quick sit down with Satyen.

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What is the best piece of style advice you have ever received, given or heard?

During my MA day at CSM... "You don't need to scream to be heard" Professor Louise Wilson OBE

Tell us about your most stylish moment or memory.

Purchasing a pair of High Top Lanvin boots from the store opening in Savile Row, though they have seen better days.

Each season the same few (designers) are talked about. Who do you think deserves a little more love, old and/or new and why?

Satyenkumar, need I say more?

Is there a neglected item of clothing or accessory that you'd like to see more men wear?

Cravats.

If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?

Gianni Versace, Miami days!

What does the word masculinity mean to you?

Image, Presence, Stature, Poise.

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In discussion with Becky French

The desire to develop a dialogue around men's style and fashion has always been one of our key motivations to spend so much of our free time blogging. Of course it is quite easy to get distracted by all the new shiny product releases and latest collections along the way but we are frequently left wanting. The topic is of course much greater than pure consumerism. With this in mind we introduced the simply titled 'Discussion' series in which we invite a cross section of thoughts on and around a given subject. It started well and we heard from the likes of Carolyn Massey, Tim Soar, b Store's Matthew Murphy and many of you answer all manner of queries but we allowed the chat to trail off somewhat. No more. To breathe fresh life in to the series and introduce fresh thought in to the discussion, we're are asking a few additional individual to add their thoughts to the topics discussed thus far. First up, Marwood's very own Becky French.

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What is the best piece of style advice you have ever received, given or heard?

Tuck your shirt in! Although i don't think that can be classed as "best advise" really, more of a strict rule enforced at school.

Tell us about your most stylish moment or memory.

The AW'04 Ralph Lauren Purple Label show. It was my first design job working in NY and they took me to Milan with the rest of the design team. The clothes, the fabrics, the days it took to prep the looks, the preciseness of every detail and fit was the first real eye opener in to luxury menswear. I learnt to tie bow ties so fast and pin collars 'just so' - everything had to be finished to perfection. When I saw the line-up of the models going out all impeccably styled to an almost unachievable level that you only see realised in films, the result of an uncompromising vision, it was definitely admirable.

Each season the same few (designers) are talked about. Who do you think deserves a little more love, old and/or new and why?

Berthold. I recently tried on some of his menswear and love it all. It's not for girls (officially) but I just think it makes his clothes even better that they cross over. Attentive cut and unusual fabrications with a minimal, sporty aesthetic. I like that style in contrast to 'traditional' menswear.

Tell us about the most stylish man you've ever known

I don't think I've met him yet ...however I do have vivid memories of my Grandad. He always wore a tie and cardigans or a jacket every day. He and my grandma would take us to their favourite pub for Sunday roast but every day he wore what could be seen as Sunday Best. That (restricting) commitment to society dress rules has gone now so it's good to have memories of that generation first hand.

Is there a neglected item of clothing or accessory that you'd like to see more men wear?

Ties/neckerchiefs/gentleman's jewellery accessories that you only come across in antique shops - but worn inventively.

If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?

When women started to wear trousers.

What does the word masculinity mean to you?

Confident, purposeful and an assertive of a point of view.

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Over the coming weeks we will set new topics to explore but before we move on, it would be lovely to hear from a few of you on the above.

In discussions: Unsung designers continued

Earlier this month, we started the conversation around the great unsung of menswear design. Our aim for this month's topic is to afford a little attention to the oft over looked and forgotten designers and labels. The discussion was launched with the help of the insight of Dal Chodha, Dapper Kid and The Dandy Project. Their recommendations led to Giancinephile bringing Jean-Paul Knott and Young Chong Bak to our attention in the comments box. At Cerruti and Smalto respectively, these two talents are guided by values of the past to create modern classic menswear that particular resonates with this lover of romanticism. Then, 1972 reminded us of a band of second time round designers including Matteo Bigliardi and Kostas Murkudis. Prime examples of designers who burst onto the scene tears ago with stunning collections, then went quiet and resurfaced recently with further attention. Here, we continue the conversation with the thoughts of the ever opinionated Daniel Jenkins...

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Each season the same few (designers) are talked about. Who do you think deserves a little more love, old and/or new and why?

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"I have written and rewritten my answer to this question several times this afternoon. At one point we were looking at 1500 words. Unsurprisingly this is a topic I have quite strong opinions on.

Underrated is an interesting term. Sometimes something seen as underrated is simply unknown or as is unfortunately more often the case in fashion, underrated labels are often those unwilling to play the game which many of us subscribe to.

Frankly I like clothes. Some of it is trend led, some is me trying to be as obstinate as possible but, the majority of those items/labels that receive my patronage do so because when I pop on one of their garments I have a smile on my face and feel like I could take on the world.

The above mantra is what I applied when answering the question posed. Therefore it’s past and present mixed up.

The Hardwear Clothing Company. This was a British label from the late 70’s/80’s. Very under the radar but, has hugely influenced the likes of Nigel Cabourn. Their Grey Suede M65 is by far the best and most luxurious take on the M65 I’ve seen and the Flight jacket is next level. Almost impossible to get hold of now. The pieces I’m fortunate to have are being saved for when I have a son.

Early Duffer including the people and store. Without them I’m pretty sure we wouldn’t be sat here discussing what was under or overrated. I have so much respect for the guys involved and find it astonishing how one company spawned so many other labels. Duffer links in nicely to 6876 and Stansfield. Both labels are fairly well known but, create items that far outstrip many of their competitors. Kenneth and Dom are always worth having a cup of tea with as well.

Martine Rose. Firstly I should admit I think Martine is one of the nicest people in the industry. Her shirting makes me smile. It’s fun, sexy and interesting. Each time I wear one of her shirts people comment. Sometimes bad – philistines – mostly good. No-one else is really trying to do what she does.

Satyenkumar has always got me going. Whether it is the dyed black marcella and silk jacket worn over the panel sweat or his sharp highly structured tailoring which sits as on the shoulders as if construction is a dirty word. Incredible attention to detail, the best fabrics and slightly challenging shapes. Nothing else looks quite like it. Yet it works best mixed up with a bit of slightly baggier worn in clothing. I still remember the first time I saw his work and thought this is it. This has the potential to change things."

Daniel Jenkins, Retailer

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Who are your unsung designer heroes? Do let us know below...

In discussion: Unsung designers and labels

You might recall that during the latter half of last year we sparked off a series of monthly discussions around a given subject, for example 'Tell us about your most stylish moment and the most stylish man you've ever met,' and so on. Over the last few months this feature has been on the blogging sidelines but we'd like to continue the chat around menswear and would love for you all to take part. To begin with we thought it would be nice to afford a little attention to the unsung designers and labels. Helping to kick start the conversation, we have asked a selection of our favourite menswear personalities to real a few of their neglected favourites.

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Each season the same few (designers) are talked about. Who do you think deserves a little more love, old and/or new and why?

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"You have posed an interesting question, loaded with both the pro and against argument in relation to how designers are being forced to work today. ‘Each season the same few (designers) are talked about. Who do you think deserves a little more love, old and/or new and why?'

As the Internet’s role in the communication of fashion remains imperative, surely there is room for every designer to remain in the spotlight – no matter how bright it may shine. There are of course – and always have been – certain magazines/websites with certain aesthetics (and political leanings) that limit the selection of designers they can laud. To talk of Katie Eary’s shiny plastic wit next to Margaret Howell’s reserved, paper-cotton shirts would rightly seem at odds with any sort of editorial stance.

There is space for new designers and the unsung to establish room for themselves. Any designer working today needs to understand the role of self-promotion as much as they understand the construction of a peacoat and it is true that this way of thinking is creating a generation of 'jack of all trades' designers, unable to create collections inspired by experiences and feelings alone; forcing an allegiance with whichever style tribe seems affluent.

Who deserves a little more love? Tim Soar's collections are beautiful, but I feel not 'London' enough to survive here - his aesthetic, fabric choices and cut all deserve a more refined palette and customer than the trend-hungry fashionistos of London who do not make up a large enough consumer base to justify excessive press attention.

Ian Batten is also the maker of wonderful wardrobe staples, great chord trousers and good solid jackets but he chooses to remain away from the press machine and humdrum of Fashion Week. Who’s at fault? The designers who deserve more attention are the ones who ultimately do little more than create great collections, to encourage it. It's up to the Editors and journalists to seek out good design, not the other way around."

Dal Chodha, writer, editor and consultant.

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"Damir Doma! One of my favourite designers and someone that really does not receive the attention he deserves (although he was admittedly a finalist for the 2010 Swiss Textiles Awards). In just a few years he has come to define and present a confident and personal aesthetic that I find myself relating to in an incredibly intimate manner, not only stylistically but also from a cultural standpoint. His Spring/Summer 2011 collection was actually my favourite collection since the final collection Miyashita showed for Number (N)ine. I am also quite the fan of his Silent line of organic basics - the quality and price are hard to match.

In terms of older names, I am thinking about comebacks that seem to have been slightly overlooked - Alexandre Plokhov and Josephus Thimister. I think Plokhov's return was certainly on a par with the best of Cloak, although I suppose it remains to be seen how good the pieces are once they actually hit the stores. And I thought Thimister was absolutely beautiful, even if the womenswear looks trumped the menswear!"

Dapper Kid, blogger.

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"Old: The 90s have affixed quite a stigma on Giorgio Armani, with the silhouette of his relaxed suit overused and widely mis-worn. But seeing him put forth updated versions of this relaxed suit in fresher fabrics and in slightly more modern shapes these past few seasons makes me convinced that I need one in my life. There is an effortless, timeless elegance in wearing a divinely dark Armani suit; I'd like one in drapey navy wool please, to be worn shirtless with vintage oxfords!

New: A new favorite of mine is From Britten, by Melbourne brothers Tim and Alex Britten, who I had the privilege of interviewing recently. (The feature will be up soon!) I love the way they expertly reinvent menswear classics, making them fresh and strikingly modern, without being too gimmicky. Their thorough and exhaustive process of creating their pieces is so refreshing in this day and age of fast fashion. They are most definitely one of the best new talents in menswear today."

The Dandy Project, blogger.

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Is there a designer or label that you think deserves more attention? Who are your unsung designer heroes? Do let us know below...

British menswear in 2010 and beyond

Now, I had started to embark on an epic review post and spent a few hours revising bookmarks and admiring saved images. I began reminiscing over the colour rich Jil Sander SS111 show which was held in the elaborate garden of a spectacular villa in the far hilly reaches of Florence, the dazzling lazer display at the culmination of JW Anderson's SS11 show, experiencing the making of Harris Tweed in the Outer Hebrides and my numerous retail discoveries throughout the year. The last twelve months have been fruitful and have seen us enthuse, reveal and discuss a myriad of menswear subjects over the course of three hundred and eight posts. However, having seen the gluttony of 'Best of' lists clogging the arteries of the blogosphere, I have decided to take a different stance. Yes, 2010 has been a good year but how can we make 2011 a great year?

Having given the subject more thought than any of the other aforementioned volume of posts, I decided to look at the state of British menswear. Menswear Day during London Fashion Week has certainly  continued to grow over the course of two schedule packed days in 2010. Presentations, catwalk shows and film screenings have all celebrated the exciting diversity of menswear design talent which uniquely exists in this capital of ours. It has been hugely exciting to see stalwarts of Savile Row sit so comfortably alongside high street regulars, established designers and enthralling new talent alike. Both  days helped cause a sartorial stir or two whilst collectively flying the flag of menswear and tiring me out in the process. Dense, exciting schedules and flag waving aside, I have found myself with more questions than answers when I come to give British menswear design the once over. Have these ever evolving moments really pushed British menswear design forward as far as they can? Is Menswear Day enough? Are retailers really supporting the talent? Can the design talent that I celebrate forge viable and successful businesses? Are we, as consumers, doing enough?

In moments of questioning, it is always helpful to turn to a different voice.  As I have enjoyed so many discussions with menswear retailer Daniel Jenkins this year, it was fitting to hear his thoughts on the subject... 

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"What is the point of British menswear? Now I must confess to being redhanded and place my cards upon the table. Anyone who receives a Christmas or birthday present from me is accepting ill gotten gains funded by British fashion.

Confession aside I have no interest in using this article to promote the labels that we already sell and those that we will sell in the future. I believe in what we buy and therefore if it doesn't sell I take full responsibility. This leads into my main point, Steve mentioned the end of year review to me a few months ago. I'll admit I was slightly wrapped up in finding the best flat white in London (Woman in Present if you are interested always go for the 6oz). Dalston cliche aside it made me think. So much so I had a rant which I have managed to slightly temper. Two days later I was fortunate to be invited to take an economist around the Whitechapel Gallery with the aim of ignoring the art and discussing the future of British fashion. The question was should British fashion be 'saved' or not. I spent two hours arguing for its survival then received a text message about something far more important and realised the charade was up. Perhaps it shouldn't be 'saved'. 'Saving' as it currently stands could in fact damage it further.

I see it like this. I understand that many within the industry disagree with me and think me a fool for expressing my views however, I simply cannot go on any longer labouring under the pretence that this situation is adequate, normal or acceptable. Despite this year having spent more time with my head in books than look books trying to figure life out, I have seen enough to realise that in terms of sheer design the industry in the UK is in rude health. I don't care who you are or what you do I simply cannot understand any argument claiming that there is better design talent outside of the United Kingdom. Yesterday, Steve and Eliza ran a feature on Joe Casley Hayford, a sublime talent who along with Charlie is changing how the world dresses. This is what we do in the UK. We set the parameters. Yet the press discussion about the best labels, the most exciting stores, the items that men truly would sell their girlfriend for always includes items predominately from outside of this sceptred isle. Why is this? The power of paid for advertising or a deeper and more dangerous issue? We are in real danger of losing a lot of talent which if given a little bit more of a push could really achieve something.

We have a dedicated 'Menswear' day at London fashion week. This I applaud for its intention and execution - this year it was highly professional, but it isn't enough. I'm bored with the conversation that the menswear industry in the UK will simply never be profitable enough. This is sheer nonsense perpetuated by those unwilling to take a risk. We need to ask ourselves why isn't it working. Why are labels having trouble cementing themselves? Each time I read an article about how rosy British menswear is I'm reminded of John Le Carre's words in 1963 'men condemned to death are subject to sudden moments of elation; as if, like moths in the fire, their destruction were coincidental with attainment'.

Please don't confuse me with someone wishing to do damage to the industry. Yes my suit may be painted black and I might admire and enjoy  Auden's poetry noir whilst taking a wistful glance through memories but, I just want to give those with talent in this country a fair and level playing field. If they fail then so be it. They would always have done so. To deny them the opportunity to succeed or fail because they aren't immediately commercially viable is criminal. I understand the financial implications better than most. We are funded solely by sales. If we do not sell we cannot continue operating. I believe that we have a duty to promote those that perhaps would not be given the chance elsewhere. Yes we profit from it, I run a business and I attempt daily to challenge Tony Wilson's mantra regarding history and money  - failing probably on both counts - because someone once took a chance on Ralph Lauren, Alexander McQueen and anyone you could care to mention. Yes, these were business decisions but they were also seven inch leap's from heart to head.

There are those making a difference and there are solutions which have been proffered from greater communication between independent stores and the BFC, increased presence at Paris fashion week - London falls outside of the majority of foreign buyers' schedule each season. An understanding that talent in this country does occasionally need guidance in making sure that they aren't let down by manufacturers, stores and other parts of the 'fashion chain'. If these steps were undertaken I'd be part way to happiness and if the BFC or anyone with ideas regarding how we can turn 2011 into a watershed, wishes to contact me then I'm ready, daniel@danieljenkins.co.uk"

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I don't know about you but I found myself nodding quite a bit throughout this rant. More, on a number of different levels, can be done. For me, one of the real positives of the year has seen the real gems of British menswear take important steps towards Paris. The LONDON ShowROOMS have been successfully running for five seasons now but SS11 saw it extend to include some of the best emerging menswear talent in the UK. The scheme, a joint collaboration by the British Fashion Council, Fashion East and The Centre for Fashion Enterprise took fourteen designers to show in Paris. The likes of Bernstock Speirs, Blaak, BOYOstudio, Carolyn Massey, Christopher Kane Men's, Christopher Raeburn, Miharayasuhiro + Husam el Odeh eyewear, James Long, Katie Eary, KTZ, Lou Dalton, Omar Kashoura and Tim Soar were all present. Their designs showcased at a time in line with the real buying season. Regardless of talent, in order to survive, our favourite designers require sales and even though Menswear Day is wonderful theatre, I'd love to see the very best of our talent continue to charm the world. Here's to British menswear design talent winning over buyers and consumers in the same way that it has won critical plaudits in recent seasons.

In discussion... 2010

The desire to develop a dialogue around men's style and fashion has always been one of our key motivations to blog and this year we embarked on a new series that aimed to stoke the fires of menswear conversation. Each month, starting from May, we invited a cross section of thoughts on and around a range of subjects from the most stylish men they've ever known to the best piece of style advice they had ever heard. Over the course of the year, we heard from a mixed bag of knowledgeable folk air their thoughts and responses came from designers, store owners, PRs, journalists and a few fellow bloggers alike. With this in mind, we couldn't turn the page on the last twelve months without hearing from a few of our favourite figures of menswear on their highlights of 2010...

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"My highlight of the year for menswear would be Dries Van Noten's Fall 2010 collection. Never before have I wanted so much from one collection and I've been buying quite a bit."

Tommy Ton, photographer and blogger.

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"I think personally, making the film that we did for SS11. I find fashion film difficult, its often horribly self indulgent and pointless with it, with little or obvious narrative. We wanted to make something interesting, odd and beautiful, and I'm my harshest critic, but I think we came up with something pretty special there."

Carolyn Massey, designer.

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"Collaborating with Mogwai and Woolrich Woolen Mills for The Rig Out short film was the highlight of my year. A week spent in the north of Norway in July, messing about on glaciers and the odd weird effect of 24 hour daylight was very cool. Plus, the film's not bad too. Check it out!"

Glenn Kitson, co-founder of the Rig Out magazine, PR and brand consultant.

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"My highlight of 2010 was getting let loose in the RRL showroom for the first time. The environment was incredible and with everything RRL no stone had been left unturned. The collection was authentic Americana Vintage and one of the best I had seen all year. I can’t wait to see it launch in store in February in the first RRL shop in shop in Europe."

Stephen Ayres, Menswear Buying Manager at Liberty.

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"The best find of 2010 for me is Japanese brand Sasquatchfabrix. We are the first to bring this over from Japan and I have no doubt that in the coming years this brand will be on peoples radar in a big way. I absolutely love the aesthetic and the raw feeling of this brand."

Dan Mitchel, Buyer at LN-CC

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"The highlight of my fashion year has to be the number of decent menswear stores that have opened up in London over the past 12 months. It is the first time in many years that London has a retail landscape which reflects some of its unique energy."
Joe Casely-Hayford, designer.

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"The most exciting Fashion find of 2010 was all the fatboy fashions coming for SS11. Mr. Hare is only a healthy, bon vivant, size 54, yet even stores in which my shoes are stocked only keep there ranges up to a 52, which in the week before fashion week, due to stress and over work I can just about squeeze into. A few Parisien steak tartares later though and I am back in the land of ass. But this coming summer whether it is Prada's tie front (Karl Kani) jeans and shorts or Diors " I used to be fat but look at me now yo!! Lost 60lbs in sixty minutes at the LIPO-Fatty spa." Or even Haider Ackermans Opium den proprietor/Lothario apparel Fat is where it's at. And our style icon, yes, we wish you were still here...Fat Joaquin!"

Mr Hare, shoe enthusiast and designer.

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We will be posting our own review of the year tomorrow which will include the thoughts of Daniel Jenkins. In the meantime, why not tell us about your menswear highlight below...

Advent - Twenty Four

Whilst nurturing some of the best menswear design talent in the capital and beyond, b store have been merging art, fashion and design seamlessly for a number of years now. With each visit to the Savile Row institution, there is the chance to discover a new designer, an exhibition, a magazine or even just a moment when you talk to them and leave with something new. You can always expect to be surprised when you visit the store. Here's what's on Matthew Murphy's Christmas list...

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FRENCH COPPER PANS BY THE PIERRE VERGNES FAMILY

I love these classic set of french copper pans made by the Pierre Vergnes Family..........perfect for oven baked ham and eggs, 'Leila's cafe' style!

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'SANDALWOOD' EAU DE COLOGNE BY SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

Most of Santa Maria Novella's cologne's are beautiful..... but I like to alternate Vetiver and Sandalwood, which is my current favourite..... The original store in Florence is amazing and is where I first fell in love with the fragrances.

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Advent - Day Twenty Three

3939 launched as a lifestyle and retail concept located in the basement of a well loved Japanese restaurant, Life just last month. Set up by three creative friends in Tatsuo, Pippa and Peter. Both the physical and digital spaces showcase the trios unique ideas, collaborations and exclusive products which have been developed in association with the craftsmen and talent that they all adore. This is a truly independent project driven forward by the determination to offer something different. 3939 incorporates a unique point of view and leaves me excited in the process. Having provided me with a wealth of present options for my nearest and dearest, I just had to find out what was on Tatsuo Hino's Christmas list and here it is...

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ELEPHANT RING BY DOG STATE

The item is the 'Elephant Ring' by Dog State . I have actually ordered to have it resized for me when I am back from Japan early next year. It is made by my friend, Toshi, who is based in London and trained at the Great Frog for eight years as residential shop keeper and designer. What I like about it is that the detailing about the face is so intricate. I cannot wait to wear this!

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LEWIS D LTD 204A FLYING BOOTS

My ideal Christmas gift would be the Lewis D Ltd Flying boots with shearing inside. I recently tried a pair on at the Lewis Leathers store. They were reintroduced the boots back into the range after carefully researching them right down the to the correct buckles of the original pair from the 30s. The shearling lining is sourced from a Tannery in the West Country, the leather nowadays is a high grade Cowhide for durability during everyday wear, soles are leather and the heels are rubber with a pattern identical to those found on many vintage RAF flying boots. They are a classic with heritage, sleek but modern and functional boot commanding a reasonable price (£350) for what they are.

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Advent - Day Twenty Two

The introduction of Trunk Clothier's to Marylebone's Chiltern Street has been one of the real highlights of the year. Trunk's model is simple; to stock great Italian, Japanese, Swedish and American brands that already have a strong following among London residents, but frustratingly for them could only be found abroad. Formally a senior manager in global partnerships at American Express, Klingberg has fused his background in fashion, retail and financial services to engage with brands that are united in their passion for quality and detail. The facet that makes Trunk unlike any other store, has been his ability in convincing smaller brands, such as Stealth Wealth of Kyoto and Bogliolo, to take a risk overseas. Klinsberg noticed a clear gap in the market and has thankfully taken advantage. The store affords discoveries at every turn. Here's what's on his Christmas list.

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TRUNK BY PORTER BOSTON BAG

"I'd love to find one of our own Trunk by Porter bags under the Christmas tree this year. Preferably the olive Boston Bag to match the Tote that I already have. Porter started manufacturing highly durable bags for carrying rubble for Japanese building sites many years ago. Their modern bags reflect this heritage with an emphasis on durability, understatement and functionality."

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Advent - Day Twenty One

Like us, Fine and Dandy's very own Matt Fox has an appreciation for the well dressed gentlemen of yesteryear and is inspired by their unabashed use of accessories, so this is what he stocks in his marvelous online store. Fine and Dandy is a shop which provides all the finishing details to truly be fine and dandy. Here's what's on his Christmas list...

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VINTAGE FAIR ISLE

"For the last year or so I've been saying that I want more fair isle. There is something so festive about it, as if while wearing, one should be in a ski lodge by the fire sipping hot chocolate. Although I acquired a fair isle-inspired sweater last winter, I was reminded once again of my unfulfilled quest from a photo from Sergei Sviatchenko's Close Up And Private in which the model is wearing a beautiful fair isle sweater vest. The closest I can find to it is one from a past collection from Polo on ebay. Santa, are you listening?"

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Advent - Day Twenty

Sergei Sviatchenko's Close Up and Private is an on going project which looks to capture the spirit of modern style, as seen through the subtle shades of the individual. We have long been admirers and love the project celebrates classic details alongside contemporary looks through a unique form of photographic documentary and film. It has been a real highlight of 2010. Here we find out what's on Sviatchenko's Christmas list...

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THENEWNO2'S YOU ARE HERE

"I came across Thenewno2 a while ago and loved the band immediately. I have asked my two sons to buy me the album" You are here" as a Christmas present. In my opinion Dhani Harrison, who started this band is a very promising personality within this genre of music. He has style, great music abilities and he is a very charismatic person. Furthermore, I read that he graduated from Brown University in the courses Physics and Industrial Design and this impresses me too."

A shot inspired by the logo of the band in Close Up And Private style

PS: He has just launch a new group with Ben Harper and Joseph Arthur named Fistful of Mercy, with the album name "As I Call You Down" - highly recommended."

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Advent - Day Nineteen

Whenever I need elucidation on a matter of menswear I know who to turn to. For me, there are few people in this industry who know more than, or are as passionate as, Andrew Bunney. Over the course of the year I have enjoyed a number of lengthy discussions with the designer that have left my tired brain inspired. It could be a discovery of a new label, a particular street wear trend of yesteryear or a method of craft, it matters not a jot because chances are, Bunney knows all about it. In addition to being something of a fountain of knowledge, the designer has had a busy year. Throughout 2010 alone, Bunney has been quietly navigating an elegant and refined men's jewellery offering under his own name, recently joined forces with Daryl Saunders to create British Remains and found the time to produce The Exquisite Shoe Horn with Mr Hare. Here we reveal what he'd like to find under his Christmas tree...

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VINTAGE DUNHILL CLOCK FROM THE 1930S

"Isn't it nice when you receive something, and can always remember where and when it came from? All presents are special of course, but best of all I like to have something that marks a moment in time.

For my stocking selection, I choose this small vintage clock, made by Dunhill some time in the 1930s, and beautifully covered with inlaid mother-of-pearl. As tastes have changed and watch sizes increased, it seems better to fit a pocket although I suppose it was designed as a desktop clock. When pressing the two sides, the front windows open and the clock face pops up. In person, you have to appreciate just how simple and tactile this piece is, and the charm that watch making had then which is so difficult to recreate now."

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Advent - Day Eighteen

London based stylist and consultant Stephen Mann has had a busy year. Chances are, he has had a hand in creating your favourite look book, magazine editorial and consulted on your favourite labels. Highlights of 2010 include his work with oki-ni, Hostem, Heritage Research, Inventory, The Green Soccer Journal and Arc'teryx Veilance to name but a few. Despite a hectic work schedule, Mann thankfully has enough time to update his wonderfully simple blog, thenonplace. The carefully selected assortment of products accompanied by simple text frequently offers welcome procrastination during my working day in front of the computer screen. Having enjoyed his conveyor belt of all things covetable for a number of years now, we just had to include him in our festive feature. Here's what's on his Christmas list...

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RECYCLED YARN SCARF FROM THE SOLOIST

"Under the tree I would like to find this recycled yarn scarf by Takahiro Miyashita 'The Soloist'. A scarf has fast become one of my favourite items this winter. I have been wearing cashmere silk Faliero Sarti scarfs pretty much daily for the last two months. However, this beautiful recycled yarn scarf from the fantastic 'The Soloist' line by Takahiro Miyashita is high on my list, in fact if I found anything from this line in my stocking I would be over the moon. The attention to detail and finish on this line is right up there with the best of them. Gentle shapes and fabrics and a great silhouette. It has to be one of my favourite lines of the year."

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Advent - Day Seventeen

Lou Dalton's rebellious English sportswear is always one of the real highlights of Menswear Day. Looking back to September, for SS11 Dalton continued to practice and hone her signature style with a strong sense of detail as she took inspiration from a nomadic lifestyle. There was a definite sense of crumpled classics throughout the presentation. Each garment had an appealing lived in quality and each look drew on influences from wide travels, from India through to North America and onwards through Europe. As the snow heavy sky loom over the city this collection and the lifestyle is celebrated are pretty inviting. Before I pack my bag and leave for faraway lands, we caught up with the designer to hear what's on her lengthy Christmas list...

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CROFT OFF THE SHETLAND ISLANDS

"There are so many things I'd love to have come Christmas day, from simple things like a Tom Ford Lipstick to a new pair of Church's Chelsea boots to the ultimate wish of a Croft off the Shetland Islands. Shetland holds such dear memories and it is a place I would hope to retire to when I'm old and grey. In addition to this any print by the fabulous artist John Currin, I love, love, love his work and would kill for a painting or two....."

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Advent - Day Sixteen

At this time of year there is one department store that draws me in with its festive interior and myriad of gift options inside, Liberty. However, outside of the usual gifting season there is plenty of reason for me to venture down to the basement. The menswear floor at London’s most cherished store is widely considered to be small but perfectly formed. Menswear buyer Stephen Ayres regularly introduces new labels whilst keeping old favourites to help create a dream walk in wardrobe. Here we find out what's on his Christmas list... 

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VINTAGE ROLEX OYSTER DATE WATCH FROM 1981


"My Christmas would be complete if I woke up to a Vintage Rolex Oyster date adjust watch from 1981 the year I was born. I think every man should have a proper watch and as I approach 30 only a Rolex will do."

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Advent - Day Fifteen

Apologies for the late unveiling of day fifteen of our Advent calendar but for us, the day was something of a write off. This blogger barely left the soothing comfort of his duvet as his head and throat felt abused and unqestionably inhuman. Thankfully, matters have improved enough to return the much missed glow of the laptop long enough to reveal what is on Patrick Grant's wish list this Christmas.

Just last week Grant was deservedly crowned Menswear Designer of the Year at this year's BFAs where he declared that "it's been a really remarkable year for us  (E. Tautz) and this award makes a rather nice early Christmas present." His personal style as well as his work at both the houses of Tautz and Nortons & Sons has received much attention on the pages of this blog, so who better to ask to take part in our festive feature? So, in addition to receiving awards, here's what's on his Christmas list...

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DAWES ULTRA GALAXY TOURING BIKE

"I think I'd like a Dawes Ultra Galaxy, simply the finest touring bicycle, still built in England, from the bike makers to the British Army. Might be just the thing to finally get me on that cycle tour of the Western Isles I've been banging on about for years."

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Advent - Day Fourteen

So, here we are, day fourteen of our Advent calendar and I am full of cold. Despite my incessant sniffles and grumbles, the show must go on. Today we feature the commercial desires of one of the most active men in the industry, Steve Monaghan. Sane Communications is an agency for a selection of some of the finest fashion and lifestyle brands and covetable products on the market. His client list reads like a who's who of menswear and includes oi polloi, Lavenham, Bedouin, Happy Socks and Penfield to name just a few. Here's what's on his Christmas list...

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DARK HORN HANDLE WALKING STICK


"A walking cane and a field spaniel. The field spaniel would be called Murdoch X and the cane would come from here."

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Advent - Day Thirteen

Today is not just the thirteenth day of our advent calendar but also Dick Van Dyke day (and the birthdays of our respective partners). So, we will keep posting to a minimum today before embarking on a day of much celebration. Behind door number thirteen on our festive calendar is is the founder and owner of Murdock London, Brendan Murdock.

Established in 2006, Murdock London offers the modern gentleman a relaxing and refined environment to escape the fast pace of city living, leaving looking and feeling better than ever. Each of its four stores combines the traditional elements of a barbershop blended with a contemporary and inviting feel. The product selection at Murdock reflects their interest in artisan manufacture and stylish simplicity, carefully edited, they are brands to discover and desire, not widely available in other retail environments, with many products that are exclusive to Murdock in England. It should came as little surprise then that Murdock has looked close to home for his gift...

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MURDOCK COLOGNES

"The Murdock colognes are perfect gift this Christmas for the gentleman who likes a classic reinvented. Each cologne is distinct with its own suggestive personality – the British bohemian, the curious adventurer, the louche dandy, the wanderlust traveller all sharing common convictions of quality, confidence, style and individuality. I believe these words define the Murdock Man, and who says a modern gentlemen can't indulge in a few simple fragrances? Just like life our colognes are reassuringly complex and deeply engaging..."

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