I was always one of those annoying kids at school who offered very little over the course of the school year in class but still walked away with an A grade much to the irritation of my teachers. The consequence of this lack of effort returning good results has meant I have been conditioned to be lazy and never really apply myself for the high grades because I just expect them. There is one A though that I am willing to try for, the new A shaped silhouette put forward by Lanvin's Aw09 collection in Paris earlier this year. With this in mind, I think it is time for some revision...
Over the last few seasons Lucas Ossendrijver has been the master of a relaxed luxury aesthetic and season after season I have longingly waited and then duly salivated over the catwalk images. Deft touches frequently underscore the forward-looking approach espoused by Lanvin under Ossendrijver's guide. The AW09 collection left a number of critics dismissing the designs and casting it with all of the other somewhat sombre recession affected collections. They overlooked the new 'A shaped silhouette'. I remarked the following over on Fashion156:
New silhouettes focused on volume, for example a trench coat cinched in at the waist or the soft tailored jackets with wide pleated trousers. One of the most surprising looks for me was the combination of slim fitted trousers, layered with socks and lace up boots.
The latest issue of 10 Men includes the new silhouette within it's ten commandments and adds to my understanding of how the look is achieved with a little discussion with Ossendrijver. So what does Lucas mean by A shaped? Ossendrijver explained "We worked a lot with raglan sleeves that weren't exactly raglan.It was about erasing everything inside - shoulder pads, for example." The collection experiments with cut and fabric, most of the suits are in fact, somewhat surprisingly jersey. I love the new silhouette because everything looks and more than likely, feels flexible. Lanvin continue to offer relaxed luxury looks but the offering is anything but dull and repetitive because the house always offers something more. I'll certainly try for an A.